Reacclimating to Melbourne

​Sometimes life doesn’t lend itself to the episodic format of this blog. Two such examples: my brief 2-day stint in Melbourne between visiting the Whitsundays and Darwin, and the slow 4 days after returning from Darwin. Both chapters took place against the backdrop of Melbourne in winter, a sharp contrast from the tropical weather in Queensland and the Northern Territory. Here’s a post to fill in these two gaps in the timeline.

Part 1: Back from Whitsundays
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My immune system was worn day in the Whitsundays. The unseasonable Antarctic winds, getting in and out of the water to snorkel, living in close quarters with other travelers, and long days on the water had finally caught up with me. Melbourne’s cold weather didn’t help. I had a runny nose and phlegmy cough, and kept them at bay with copious amounts of orange cinnamon tea. Also, after 4 weeks on the road, being able to cook my own familiar recipes was something I found surprisingly comforting.

​The Lonely Planet Australia guidebook that I had borrowed from the Carlton library had finally run out of loan renewals. I took photos of the pages still relevant for my final weeks, and then slid it through the book return. Symbolically, it was the beginning of the end. I started to spend more time thinking about “bucket list” destinations in Melbourne.

​One such place was Brunetti Classico, the Italian café and dessert institution. I’d passed it dozens of times but hadn't tried it yet. The foyer’s display cases of eclairs, tarts, cakes, biscuits, and chocolates were simply stunning. It took me several passes to absorb the options, many of which had unfamiliar names. Ultimately, I chose a chocolate éclair, a lime tart, and a “fleur cake” with lemon sponge and rhubarb compote. So tasty! The fleur was a big winner.

​​The café itself had an interesting layout. By the Lygon Street entrance, there were outdoor concrete tables and a dedicated gelato window. There was also a second entrance from inside the Lygon Court shopping center, which had more traditional wooden café tables. I sat by the coffee bar, which had two levels of baristas. The baristas in the inner circle hopped from machine to machine making drinks, while the baristas in the outer circle consolidated the orders and handed them over the counter.

​On the café floor, waiters in black aprons promptly picked up empty plates before they were discovered by small birds taking advantage of the open layout. While leaving, I discovered an enormous backroom with even more display cases filled with Italian breads and sandwiches. Brunetti was the real deal!

I had a chance to see Reggie, who had just started a new government job at the National Disability Insurance Scheme (NDIS). Transitioning back into working life had been rough. The cluttered apartment reflected Reggie’s worn-down state. A new addition to the living room, a shopping cart filled with boxes, took up the last remaining floor space. Though as always, we had a good chat about life.
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Attending a Saturday morning Parkrun was another rough re-entry. I hadn’t logged any kilometers since my last session a month earlier. After the workout, Ben and I went out for brunch in Carlton. He had recently bought an old "ute" (utility truck), charming in its antiquity – a manual transmission, hand-crank windows, a lack of power steering, and a steering wheel lockbar to deter theft. It had been owned by a mechanic and was in good shape. Ben was a competent driver, sharing the road with trams and finding parking despite not being able to make a U-turn. I was impressed!

​His brunch recommendation, a spot called Florian on Rathdowne Street, was also on point. I had a delicious riff on eggs benedict with sauteed greens. It might have been my first proper Aussie brunch. Surprising it took so long, given the country’s “brekkie” culture.

Part 2: Back from Darwin
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It was a 4-hour flight from Darwin to Melbourne, and a 30-minute time change. After a groggy 5:30am landing, SkyBus ride, and tram journey, I was back in Carlton and ready for a proper nap in my own bed – sleep schedule be damned. The next 48 hours were a haze of napping, writing blogs, and having meals at strange times. The marmalade jam from Judy was delicious and didn’t last long. I met a new flatmate, a friendly fellow Californian named Justin. We discovered we had some mutual acquaintances back home.

Done with my regional travels in Australia, it was now time to start thinking about my upcoming trip to French Polynesia. I went to Kmart to buy a pair of khaki pants to wear at the wedding. Kmart always seemed to have the most random US themed clothing, like a whole section of Rhode Island t-shirts! Thinking of New England, I also shipped a box of souvenirs to my friends in Boston. The cost of international postage was actually reasonable.
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Back in exploring mode, I headed to the Shrine of Remembrance to check out the military museum. This was the same shrine where I attended the dawn service on Anzac Day (April 25). My second visit happened to coincide with another commemoration: the 80th anniversary of D-Day. When I arrived, a small event was about to begin in front of the shrine. I entered the shrine and climbed to the top to see the ceremony from above, including a procession and band performance. There were also excellent views of the Melbourne skyline.

​The museum had great exhibits on all the major world wars and modern conflicts. I felt like it tied together a lot of the historical nuggets that I’d accumulated from 6 months in Australia – the Gallipoli campaign, the Kokoda track, the bombing of Darwin, etc. There was also a neat exhibit on how military uniforms have influenced popular fashion, like trench coats, bomber jackets, and camouflage. The museum was free to visit, and circling back was worth the effort.

​I also browsed the free exhibits at the ACMI, the Australian Center for the Moving Image. It was a fun and interactive museum, covering film history and modern techniques like editing and storyboarding. It also covered video games, and had working consoles loaded with noteworthy or innovative games. It had a reference to an Australian TV show called Bush Mechanics, one of the first shows in an Aboriginal language. Later in the day, I watched an episode on YouTube. It was quirky comedy about car troubles in the Outback, with some magical realism mixed in.

​During a Woolworth’s grocery run, I bought a quince (fruit) because I had never seen one in a store before. Only later did I realize it couldn’t be eaten raw. To do it justice, I poached it in sugar water and had it for dessert. It tasted like a spiced pear – delicious!

The Melbourne adventures will continue in the next post…