Dubrovnikland - The Happiest Place on Earth?

​The flight into Dubrovnik was an unexpected treat, as I had a window seat with a view overlooking the Old Town. From above, the grid of buildings looked neatly packed together, though a bit smaller than I imagined. It was a 30 minute bus ride from the Dubrovnik airport to the Ploce Gate. I was impressed with how smooth it went. Apparently the buses are synced to the incoming flight schedule, so if the flight is delayed, the bus will wait.

I spent 3 nights at Hostel Ana, just a block from the main square, so right in the heart of the Old City. This was definitely a case of prioritizing location over comfort. The common area was a single room, with all of the floor space occupied by a table and benches. The common area also doubled as the luggage storage room. Since I arrived in the late morning during the daily changeover, and the host was clearly stressed, I quickly tossed my bag in the pile and ducked out. When I returned for a proper checkin, I got to pick one of the 12 beds in the tiny room. It had 2 showers and 1 toilet, so getting up early was a clear advantage here.

The manager, Sasa (pronounced Sasha) was Ana's son and an ambiguous character. One the one hand, he played the part of our generous host, sharing his family's homemade rakija (liquor from grapes; same idea as the Cretan raki) and took pride in fostering the group's energy. He led the crew around town to a secret hideout and to a cheap bar - more on those later. But he would also disappear at inconvenient times when guests were trying to check in or out, and was a little too friendly towards some of the younger women. One morning we found him sleeping off a hangover in the common area. Hearing Sasa's stories brought a local perspective of growing up during the Homeland War, the dwindling number of full time residents, and the emptiness of the off season. These were good reminders that Dubrovnik is an actual city where people live their lives, despite the dominance of the tour groups. But Sasa wasn't exactly a sympathetic character.

I started by doing a self-guided walking tour of the city, searching for quiet corners away from the crowds. At first I thought the crowds were sticking to the main roads, like the main street called Placa. I found refuge at a quiet cafe in a cool alley, only for it to be swarmed by Australian tourists a few minutes later. Continuing the walk, I stepped through a tiny opening in the wall and found myself at a dazzling sunny outcrop with a bar and swimming access. I would later learn this was the famous Buza Bar ("Buza" meaning "hole in the wall"). I'm glad I experienced the magic of stumbling across it organically!

For lunch, I sat by the harbor and ate a sandwich. While I was there, a woman sat down nearby and tossed a fishing line into the water. I assumed she was a local because several cats approached her right away. She caught a fish, and without hesitation, slapped it down on the pavement, an apparent offering to the cats. It was a sizeable silver fish, and barely fit in the winning cat's mouth as it retreated into the shade. This all happened very quickly, and I almost couldn't believe my eyes! I stayed for a while longer in hopes of more entertainment. She caught one other fish, but the cats weren't as excited about it, staring as it flopped on the sidewalk for a minute.

In the evening, I watched the sunset from a viewpoint just outside the old city walls. I indulged in a nice Italian meal, and savored each bite of truffle cream sauce. As I drifted to sleep, pensive jazz music from the square drifted up to window, including a few songs I recognized as Satie's Gnossienes.

To beat the crowds, I arrived at the entrance to the walls right when they opened at 8am. The walls are mad expensive (35 Euros!) but at least I bought a city pass that got me into a few museums for the same price. I took my time walking the circuit, admiring the views out to the ocean and Lokram Island, as well as the views into the city and up into the mountains. I loved spotting little architectural details, like fixtures for aqueducts, rotating chimney outlets, and scrutinizing the roof tiles. Apparently you can tell which tiles are original based on the color; many buildings were damaged during the Homeland War and had their roofs replaced. Included in the walls ticket was entrance a standalone fort, St. Lawrence, with good views looking back into the Old City. It's amazing how well preserved the walls are, and they were definitely worthy of the hype.

Some of the museums I briefly visited included the Rector's Palace and ones related to Maritime, Archaeological, and Ethnographic history. I liked the artwork in the Rector's Palace. Many had references to St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik, often pictured holding a mini model of the city. They also had the original copies of the bell ringers, statues of two men with hammers that served as clappers. Every hour the bells near Rector's Palace go off twice, a few minutes apart. The second round being a courtesy, in case you forgot to count the first time. So bells are a key part of the Dubrovnik soundscape! I also liked the Maritime Museum, which explained the trade routes and influence held by the Republic of Ragusa, which was the name of Dubrovnik during its golden age. The other museums were not noteworthy.

I was treated to a dose of music in the evening. A live brass and woodwind band played a whole concert in the main square, including covers of Metallica and Latin Pop. After a light dinner of beer and tiramisu, I went to a chamber music concert in a scrappy little chapel adjacent to a monastery. It was a classical guitar and flute duo, both great performers in their own right but I was especially impressed with their synchronization. They played some Renaissance and Baroque classics, and since it was a small theater, I could practically read along with the guitarist's sheet music!

Already happy with a full day, I had another unexpected chapter. Hanging out the common room, folks invited me out for drinks, and Sasa offered to show us a mysterious secret spot. Too intrigued to say no, I signed on. Under cover of darkness, we followed him through a restaurant, skirted around the edge of the harbor, and ducked into an underground dock. He explained this is where their families would come to bathe during the Homeland War siege. It was also a backdoor entrance to the fancy restaurant above, used by celebrities keeping a low profile, and was also a filming location for a scene in Game of Thrones (unclear which one, Sasa hadn't seen the show). It was pretty cool! Then we hung out a bar, playing a classic English game called "Pass the Pigs," which involved rolling two tiny pigs like dice, and hoping they landed on all fours. It was a good group - representing the UK, Argentina, and Germany.

For my last day in Dubrovnik, I took it easy, starting with a free walking tour to learn more history and to experience the city from the perspective of a cruise ship day tourist. If you can't beat em, join em. It was nice to be part of the traffic jam for once, instead of a frustrated outsider. Later I browsed souvenir shops, with particular attention to the clever Game of Thrones merchandise and displays, including some giant dragons with built-in smoke machines. After, I enjoyed a $5 burger in front of a million dollar view overlooking a rocky harbor with beautiful blue water, and explored the park adjacent. When it came time for sunset, I bought a grocery store dinner and sat on the beach, listening to some distant live music and the hum of drones flying above.

A few hostel friends from the previous night had left, and a few new faces had joined. Among the new recruits to our social club were two chatty girls from the UK and a quieter one from Australia. I dusted off a few card tricks, and we played some group games like spoons and mafia. Later we revisited Sasa's hideout, and returned to the same bar for more merriment.

Despite these great social times, I was definitely ready to leave the claustrophobic 12 person dorm. I spent the morning walking from the Old City to the port, located in the more modern part of town. I passed by many cafe-bars, and stopped in one for an espresso, though it was clearly not frequented by tourists (they did not appear to be listed on Google Maps). The stern looking lady reminded me of my Croatian middle school history teacher.

As you can tell, I had a lot of fantastic experiences in Dubrovnik, even if it meant dealing with crowds, overpriced... everything, and cramped living quarters. I will say it was nice to have 3 full days in one place, even if they were not the most relaxing days. It's a very unique place, with undeniable beauty. Just not for the faint of heart. I shudder to think about peak summer crowds.