Barossa Valley “Shiraz” a Lot of Good Wine

​As soon as we stepped out of the Adelaide airport, the dry heat of South Australia was a remarkable change from the humidity of Queensland. We weren’t in Cairn-sas anymore – it was a new realm of “Oz.” As the Uber drove us through downtown Adelaide, the vast parks and main cricket stadium caught our eye. We learned it was called the Adelaide Oval, and hosts big concerts too.

We only stayed two nights in Adelaide, but really made the most of our time. As soon as we arrived and dropped our bags, we pivoted and caught another Uber into town so we could witness the Central Market before it closed for the day. The market was indoors, with lots of gourmet goodies that could pair with the local wines. My brain was fried and stomach was empty, so I had a flat white and some quick pizza while the others started shopping. There was a frantic energy at closing, as shops closed and hurried shoppers (like us) tried to squeeze in last-minute purchases.

​We decided to walk the 45 minutes back to our place. We only made it a few blocks before the snacking began! The snacking target was a newly acquired loaf of bread and its accompanying truffle spread. In the process of opening the spread, a little oil from the top of the jar spilled onto Val’s hands and then the sidewalk! We had a good laugh. (The truffle spread itself was a bit polarizing, but I loved it.)

​Along the way, we stopped at a Mexican fast-food place for supplemental tacos, watching the pedestrian traffic from the second floor balcony. We were all a bit surprised that Adelaide had a proper downtown, as we pictured it being a lot smaller. We ventured down this same pedestrian street to a large, two-story Woolworth’s for groceries. 

​Our walk took us through a beautiful park. It was a pleasant scene, with wide fields and chirping cockatoos. On the river, we spotted special boats equipped with a BBQ in the middle – apparently they are an Adelaide specialty. In the middle of the park was a cricket pitch where a game was in progress. Vince had the idea of checking it out, so we found our way into the brick grandstand and watched. None of us knew the rules of cricket, and were pleasantly surprised when the lady sitting near us helped explain the context.

We were watching a club match between her son’s team, visiting from the beach suburb of Glenelg, and playing against the home team, who was affiliated with the University of Adelaide. This was the higher tier of players, while the lower tier was playing on a different field in the background. We were shocked at how long the cricket games last, often from 10:00am to 5:30pm. Not only did she cheer on her son’s team, but she also worked as an usher for the professional games at the Adelaide Oval. From the way she described the team members and her involvement with the matches, we realized she was essentially a “cricket mom” and completely dedicated to the game. It was a funny and wholesome experience – yet another example of the Aussie friendliness.
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Finally we had a chance to settle into the AirBNB. It was located on a side street in the charming North Adelaide suburb, accessed by a little gate. Across the street was a pleasant café with water misters, live music, and dogs. We had a pasta dinner with more of the bread and truffle spread.

​It was finally time for our wine tasting day in the Barossa Valley! We walked to the pickup point at a hotel downtown, avoiding a few unsavory characters around the periphery. Soon our shuttle arrived. The driver was a charismatic and funny lady named Bronnie, who explained the basics of the Barossa Valley on the hour-long drive. The tour was a clever design that allowed you to choose 3-4 wineries out of a dozen or so options, as long as you visited them in a certain order. We chatted with a solo traveler named Henry, who had just started an engineering job in Adelaide a week prior.

​We already knew which 3 wineries we were going to visit, thanks to Rachel’s proactive planning. We had initially been interested in wine tasting at another region called the McLaren Vale, but she found that tour temporarily wasn’t running due to a bike race event. Rachel had booked the Barossa van tickets, researched the winery options, and made tasting appointments well in advance. Thanks to her prep work, we got to relax and enjoy the day.

The first stop was Rusden, a smaller winery with a youthful defiance of the entrenched wine culture. The tasting menu had two sides, each with a dozen options. We asked if there was a pre-set tasting flight; the host said we could try as many as we liked before the van returned. The wines all had a quirky name, which made them easier to remember. The whites included “Chasing Daises” and “Poco Loco,” while the reds included “Driftsand,” “School Days,” and “Black Guts.”

​The host explained the wines succinctly, and was ready with the next pour promptly after we finished the last. We probably tried 7-8, and all were very good. Even the heavier reds had a smooth finish, potentially due to the open-air fermentation process. It was also great value, as they waved the tasting fees with the purchase of two reasonably-priced bottles. We all agreed it was one of the best wine tasting experiences we’d ever had.

​The second stop was Yalumba, one of the historical wineries, founded in the late 1800s using gold rush money. The property was gorgeous, with a colorful stone castle and vibrant lawns. We tried the “Best of Barossa” flight with four reds. The first was an excellent grenache, and the fan favorite. The second was a syrah, and the third was a shiraz, with the difference being the growing climate (cooler for the syrah). The last was an interesting blend that wasn’t for me.

​The tasting was only one part of the Yalumba booking – Rachel also arranged a picnic lunch! We were handed two large baskets, referred to as “hampers,” allowed to choose two bottles of wine, and then let loose on the property. We staked out a spot in front of the castle building, laid out the blankets, and opened the bottle of grenache. In the hampers, there were multiple boxes of goodies, including vegan charcuterie and plenty of classic cheese and meat for yours truly. We chowed down, under a little time pressure, but still enjoying the picnic atmosphere.

​The third stop was a modern and edgy winery called First Stop. It was in an industrial building with funny sculptures like an angel pouring wine, a life-size cow, and an aquarium tank under the main bar. Our host was a friendly fellow named Nigel who pulled up a chair and sat with us while explaining and pouring the wines. Like Rusden, it was a generous flight that included 6-7 pours, starting with sparkling wine. As we progressed to the reds, we tried their signature wine, a shiraz called Mother’s Milk. Nigel even treated us to a pour of a more expensive aged red. I wish I could remember everything that we tried. On the third tasting, it was hard to keep track! I think one of them was a grenache with a matador on the label. In any case, Nigel’s laid back conversation and the reasonable prices made it another hit.

The drive back was long and sunny, so naturally I dozed off for a bit. When I woke up, my stomach was hurting and continued to hurt for the next day. A small price to pay for an incredible day of tasting.
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Although the visit to Adelaide and Barossa was a short chapter in the trip, it was a refreshing change of pace. We got to put on the nicer clothes hiding at the bottom of the suitcase, and enjoy a beautiful sunny day in a world-renowned wine region. And now whenever we see Barossa wines in the store, we'll think of our splendid day together!