Over the next days of the trip, the road trip took on epic dimensions. We left behind the harbor views and vineyards of the northern region and headed south on Highway 6 through the mountains. The small town of Murchison was an obvious choice for a fuel stop, as it sported the only gas station for an hour in either direction.

Along the way, we intersected the Buller River and followed it for a stunning 125 km. But before the river reached the ocean in Westport, the road diverged and started following a different geographic guiderail: the wild Tasman Sea. We hopped out of the car at various points along the Buller River and the Tasman Sea to soak in the views.

​The main destination on this stretch of the West Coast was an unusual rock formation called the Pancake Rocks. The tourism infrastructure leaned into the silly name, with a sign titled “pancake toppings” explaining the vegetation growing on the rocks, and a café that served actual pancakes. The rock towers had distinct layers, creating their signature pancake appearance, and erosion had battered them into different shapes, forming a city skyline of sorts. The pathway circled around a large sinkhole that exposed the waves below. Nearby, crashing waves sent plumes of sea spray upwards through blowholes. Sea birds nested in the turrets, adding motion to the sky. Whiplike seaweed called Mermaid’s Hair draped over the base of the cliffs, swirling in the churning water. It was easy to imagine that someday these towers will be reclaimed by the ocean.

​The final hour of the drive was sunny and peaceful – a great chance for me to take the wheel and build up some driving confidence in the Outlander. It was only my second time driving in NZ, and my first time on the South Island. Soon we arrived in Hokitika, a one night stay to break up the long drive. Our AirBNB was on the second story and had wonderful views of the surrounding mountains from a breakfast nook with tons of natural light.

​The Hokitika AirBnB also had a full kitchen, which meant we could have our belated Thanksgiving feast! I made tempeh chili and vegan cornbread, a riff on a comforting staple, while Rachel made her favorite sweet potato casserole with a walnut topping in lieu of the usual marshmallows. It was a true feast. Our New Zealand Thanksgiving was complete with a sauvignon blanc that we picked up in Marlborough.

​Our breakfast, inspired by the Pancake Rocks, was… you guessed it! Pancakes. Rachel whipped up the batter, and I manned the griddle. It was the perfect fuel for our pancake-loving driver. In addition to maple syrup and blueberries, a few were topped with New Zealand manuka honey.

​On our way out of Hokitika, we made a detour to visit the Hokitika Gorge. It was a popular 45-minute trail, especially on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, but not overcrowded. The water was a shocking bright neon blue, framed by short cliffs and a fern forest. I saw a lot of amazing blue water in Croatia and Greece, and this was by far the most electric. Along the way, we crossed a suspension bridge that was sturdy but see-sawed side to side as we crossed. At the end of the trail, a few large rocks offered great views (and photo ops). It was definitely worth the visit!

​We also stopped in town to look at a few jade and art galleries. The west coast rivers are where pounamu (jade) is found. It was fun to browse the stores and peek into the carving studios. I bought a pack of two uncarved stones, to satisfy my inner rock collector. And who knows, maybe I’ll carve it later? The infinite possibilities of this raw material seemed fitting for my open-ended months ahead.

​The drive from Hokitika to Franz Josef was filled with more ferns and turns. The ferns were every shade between green and red that you can imagine. And the turns were every radius of curvature that you can imagine. We passed over wide gravel riverbeds with gray water, gold mining villages well past their heyday, and towns with funny names like Whataroa.

In the town of Franz Josef, we stayed at a 2-bedroom cabin owned by a rainforest-themed lodge down the street. It was modern and clean, but like all places it had its quirks. The fridge was in a corner, but the door opened the wrong way, blocking access to its contents. The garbage can had three sections, only differentiated by their mysterious colors – yellow, green, and brown – that we never decoded. The bathroom door creaked loudly, and at one point an enormous bumblebee was discovered in the shower. On the bright side, the parking was easy and the bed was extremely comfortable, helping my back for a few mornings.
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There was a laundry room onsite, but it required coins. Egad! I had made it this far in the trip without having any cash. Thankfully, Vincent and Rachel had some loose bills, and I exchanged them at the front desk. The laundry progressed, and each time I stepped out of the laundry room, I marveled at the mysterious cloud-capped mountains, an unexpected jungle with ambient birdcalls. We settled in for a quiet evening, with Thanksgiving leftovers being the highlight.

​The next morning, we drove to the trailhead for the Franz Josef glacier, unsure if the clouds would provide any line of sight. We were surprised to find that the main 2-hour trail had been reclaimed by the river and was closed. The shorter 10-minute trail ended abruptly with a cutout of a ranger with his hand up. Behind "him" was a poster with real-world headlines about tourists getting themselves into danger when they disobeyed, and a few alternative hiking options. We waited patiently for about 15 or 20 minutes while the clouds thought about revealing the glacier. We caught glimpses, including a waterfall not too far from the tongue. But overall, Franz Josef didn’t come out to play. The limited views suggested it had receded quite far up, so the disappointment was double.

​We started driving towards Lake Matheson for a different hike, but it started raining so we turned the car around. Instead, we took advantage of the lodge’s hot tub and went out for a nice lunch at an Asian fusion restaurant called Snake Bite. I ate a wonderful plate of goreng fried rice with chicken kebabs and tried one of their signature drinks – a mix of berry cider and lager, named after the taipan (a deadly snake). Thanks to this python meal, I didn’t even need dinner!

​On the way out of town, we stopped at the post office to mail a thank-you letter to the Nelson AirBNB hosts, who helped ship us a jacket that we left behind. The “post office” turned out to be a desk within a gas station. When we walked in, the clerks were hanging Christmas decorations and telling a man with a less common propane tank to try filling it in Wanaka, a mere 284 km away.

The rain continued on our drive from Franz Josef towards Wanaka. So did the ferns and turns. Favorite tunes from Disney to Latin Pop brightened the journey. We stopped for gas in Haast, one of those “fuel now or forever hold your peace” kind of towns. Then the road turned inland… but that’s where this chapter ends.

​On the 13th day of our New Zealand trip, we rolled out of bed, gathered our suitcases and groceries, and whizzed across Wellington in Rachel’s pre-scheduled Uber. Checking in for our morning ferry was a bit like checking in at an airport, minus the security. Thanks to the early sunrise, the waiting area in the ferry terminal was already blasted with sunlight at 7:15am.

​The Blue Bridge ferry that would take us across the Cook Strait to South Island was surprisingly large, with an escalator going up several stories from the dock entrance to the passenger area. We snagged a table near the windows at the front, then backtracked to the café for a flat white. There were multiple outdoor viewing areas along the sides of the boat, and a large patio in the rear. I watched as the Wellington skyline disappeared behind us and planes took off above us.

​During the last hour of the 3-hour journey to Picton, we left the open ocean behind and threaded through the narrow passageways of the Queen Charlotte Sound. It was a beautiful sunny day, and the views were spectacular in every direction. The water was a cheerful blue, with smaller boats hugging the shore as our enormous vessel powered down the center. We passed the entrances to many sounds, catching glimpses of secluded coves in between the folds of the mountains.

​Picking up our rental car in Picton turned out to be a major hassle. After getting off the ferry, we were bussed to a temporary terminal to pick up our checked luggage. Then, we were told we missed the bus to the rental car area (a bus we didn’t even know about). While Rachel stayed with the bags, Vincent and I walked 20 minutes across town to the Budget rental office. At the Budget rental, a cheerful Scottish lady gave us our keys and suggested a few scenic stops, but it went downhill from there. Our first delay was inspecting the wrong vehicle for a few minutes (the plate was only one number different). Our second delay was discovering a broken fog light on the actual car and coaxing the Scottish agent away from the busy counter to verify. Our third delay was getting the other agent, who was more tech savvy, to amend the pre-inspection and send a confirmation. By the time we returned to pick up Rachel and the bags, we were frustrated and ready to get out of there.

​Thankfully, it was only a short 30-minute drive to the peaceful rows of vineyards in the Marlborough wine region, home of world-class sauvignon blanc. We started with a tasting at St. Clair, a highly awarded winery. Even though we didn’t have a reservation, they were able to seat us at an outdoor table made of two barrels, one of which contained a bird nest. Several bugs were delivered to this barrel while we basked in the picturesque courtyard. Rachel and I ordered flights, while Vincent was the designated driver (you’re the best!) but the waitress accidentally brought three flights. You can imagine our surprise with a battalion of 9 glasses showed up! We tried a methode traditionnelle (similar to champagne) and two sauvignon blancs – the Wairau Reserve and the Pioneer Block. Both had bright fruit flavors but were a little too dry for my taste. Afterwards, we frolicked in the vineyard, as one does.

​Driving through the valley of vines with sunny mountains in the background reminded me of Santa Rosa. We stopped for a second tasting at Forrest, which provided a whopping 7 wines in their flight. Six were whites, and all six were fantastic – rose, sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc, pinot gris, petit manseng, and a blend called “PRP” that was made by accident. The seventh, a pinot noir, was supposed to be served chilled but had warmed up and tasted sour. The menu had some very simple descriptions of the flavors that were spot on. The flight and bottles were very reasonably priced -- only $11 USD for a bottle of rose.

​The drive from wine country to the coast was very scenic, with taller mountains compared to the North Island. We stopped at the Pelorus River, where a memorable chase scene from the 2nd Hobbit movie was filmed. Our new rental car, a Mitsubishi Outlander, handled the roads fine but Vincent had a soft spot for the RAV. About an hour and half later, we arrived in the beach town of Nelson.

​In Nelson we stayed at an AirBNB with a great view of the harbor. Vessels of all kinds, from kite surfers to enormous tankers, meandered across our view. Inside, the second bed (where I slept) was a Murphy bed that folded down from the wall. The kitchen was a bit small – we had to unplug the microwave to plug in the portable stove due to a shortage of outlets – but the hosts provided milk, cereal, and a whole loaf of bread. Speaking of the hosts, they were super nice and stopped by to say hello multiple times. Vincent found out they were a long-time Nelson family that used to look after the lighthouse. When Rachel left a jacket behind, they kindly packaged it up and mailed it to one of our future AirBNBs.

The first night, we were exhausted from the early morning and ferry/car journey. However, the weather forecast only guaranteed us one more warm and sunny day. So we stayed up late researching tours, and after much deliberation, booked a full day’s adventure with Marahau Sea Kayaks.
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A second early morning. We drove an hour north along the coast to the tourism hub of Marahau, conveniently located on the edge of Abel Tasman National Park. The tour started later than expected, so we had time to chill at a café. I munched on a scone and sipped a coffee, enjoying a rare meal out. We tried customizing a potato and spinach dish for Rachel but it ended up not being vegan, a big disappointment.

​The first portion of the tour was a water taxi into the heart of the park, which is largely inaccessible by road. To our surprise, the vehicle that picked us up was a boat being pulled by a tractor. We clambered into the boat and were driven to the beach. Then, the tractor backed down a ramp into the water and released the boat into the ocean – passengers already included. Why this elaborate method? The high tide and low tide around Abel Tasman have a notoriously wide range, meaning the boats can’t reach the jetty at low tide. The solution is a fleet of tractors that can wade into the water to pick-up the boats from the shallows. It was amusing to see the enormous tractors driving through the water, pulling the suspended boats and belching smoke like some kind of amphibious Mad Max spinoff. Though our guide warned that occasionally the tractors are left parked too long and “drown” in the high tide.

​The water taxi ride itself was a highlight. The skipper briefly stopped by a rock that looks like an apple cut in half, and pointed out a few shags (cormorants). But en route, he heard a radio report about a pod of dolphins and offered to take us there. He took a shortcut around a small island, so we were the first boat to arrive on the scene. It was an impressive pod of bottlenose dolphins, probably somewhere between 10 and 20. We were struck by how large they appeared as they swam alongside the boat. We oohed and aahed at their playful leaps, following them for a few minutes before giving another boat the chance to get close. It was a delightful and unexpected wildlife encounter, and one of my favorite things from the whole day! (video link)

​The water taxi dropped us at Torrent Bay, the starting point of our hike. The “track” (as they call it) went up a hill with views overlooking Torrent Bay, and then continued north along the coastline towards Bark Bay, which in the New Zealand accent, sounded a lot like “Back” Bay. On the hike, there were pretty ferns and plants above that almost distracted me from the frequent irrigation channels that were a tripping hazard below. We also saw plenty of birds – a wild kaka (brown parrot), a few olive-green bellbirds, and numerous wekas. The wekas (flightless wood hens) roamed the periphery of the trail, pecking at the ground, and occasionally walked on the track itself, seemingly unafraid of us. The trail crossed a suspension bridge that bounced under our collective weight (eek!) but had amazing views over a wide, shallow river with a dazzling rainbow of brown, yellow, and blue.

​I went on a side quest, hiking down to Sandfly Beach while Vincent and Rachel continued on the main track. I found a beautiful brown weka feather and carried it for good luck. Sandfly Beach was largely deserted, with a few parked kayaks the main indication of human presence. As I hiked up a small dune, I heard the squawks of an oystercatcher wading in a pool of water on the other side. Somehow, I knew it was trying to warn me from approaching its nest. What I didn’t realize was the location of the nest – to my left at the top of the dune. I finally spotted the nest right as the oystercatcher started flying directly towards me, and I scurried off in the opposite direction.

​The hike down into Bark Bay was dazzling. The crystal waters below were a light shade of blue. When I arrived at the camping area, I had to look for Rachel and Vincent for a while before I found them huddled in the corner of a cooking hut with some other tourists. Apparently, the seagulls and wekas had brazenly gone after everyone’s lunches, including a sneak attack from underneath a bench. Even from the shelter of the structure, a persistent mallard stood uncomfortably close while I ate my PB&J.

​The next stage of the Abel Tasman adventure was another water taxi, with some additional “passengers” – our kayaks! After the passengers were on board, the guides stacked the kayaks sideways and tied them down, completely obscuring the view out the back. We headed south and were dropped off at Observation Beach, where the kayaks were prepared for the journey back to Marahau.

​Our guide was a local Nelsonian named Joey. At first he seemed a bit flustered, but once on the water, he was totally relaxed and friendly. He told us all about the history of Abel Tasman National Park and the local ecosystem. He didn’t seem bothered when some of the kayaks deviated from his instructions and went off course or charged ahead. As the odd man out, I got to be in the front of his tandem kayak, which was especially nice because the sea kayaks were steered using a foot-driven rudder that the person in the back controlled. While everyone else figured out the rudder’s learning curve, Joey effortlessly navigated our kayak alongside the shore for some great up-close views.

​The water was a bit choppy, so it was a real adventure. Thankfully, the kayaks had skirts that prevented most of the water from getting inside. We crossed the ocean to look for fur seals on a small island, then returned to the mainland and continued alongside the main set of beaches. The seals were good at camouflaging in the rocks, but we saw one fumble its way up and down a perch. Joey also spotted a few stingrays in the water below, but they didn’t linger. It was a real treat to be on the water on a sunny day in such a beautiful place.

​The final stage of the kayak journey was a pleasant surprise for everyone. We banded our kayaks together into a raft, and then hoisted an enormous sail that caught the wind and carried us back to shore. It gave everyone a break from the paddling and was quite the sight to behold! Everyone exited the kayaks, stiff and sore, and hobbled back to the tour agency, some walking barefoot if their shoes had been soaked earlier in the day. A free t-shirt from Marahau Sea Kayaks was a nice gift to end the tour.

​We picked up Thai food on the drive back to Nelson and enjoyed our noodles while overlooking the bay. It was a marathon day of boating, hiking, and kayaking but it was also one of the most memorable days of the trip! Abel Tasman National Park has a lot to offer, both on land and sea.

What followed was a much needed “recovery” day. We were completely out of fresh groceries, and a bit of a disheveled bunch – Vincent wasn’t feeling well, Rachel and I were still exhausted. But teamwork prevailed, and we made it to a Countdown for an enormous shopping trip, including special items for our belated Thanksgiving meal. A video chat with family gathered for Thanksgiving in Cupertino was a nice chance to see everyone despite being on the opposite side of the world. Since our kitchen in Nelson wasn’t equipped for an elaborate meal, we postponed our feast. Rachel made a Mediterranean lunch, and I made a pesto dinner. We rested and drank lots of tea. The sunset over the harbor was particularly pretty.
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Our time in the Marlborough region and Abel Tasman coast was a strong first impression to the South Island. These were some fast-paced days that took their toll, but were worth the push!

Our North Island adventure had one more destination in store: windy Wellington, the southernmost capital city in the world.
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It was a 4.5-hour drive from Napier. We passed through cute towns, including a Viking-themed one, as well as the usual rolling green hills with happy-looking sheep and cows. The drive was punctuated with a one-lane bridge over a scenic gorge. When crossing the mountain pass, Vincent did a good job of letting the speedy locals get ahead. It was a bit like driving Highway 17 to Santa Cruz; a grove of trees with red bark added to this impression.

​We arrived at our AirBNB, a modern but slightly unusual place. An enormous window with a tall yellow curtain looked out towards Cuba Street, the famous restaurant and shopping street. A pelt rug, cow hide pillows, and abstract art decorated the narrow living room. The kitchen had enough appliances to qualify as a full kitchen but lacked a can opener. I stayed in the upstairs bedroom, on a spacious mezzanine that required dodging a few overhead pipes. Shabby pigeons huddled on the patio chairs, taking refuge from the wind. In any case, it was our home and shelter for 3 nights in the city.

​To stretch out legs and get the lay of the land, we took a walk down Cuba Street to the waterfront. Cuba Street had a quirky, delightful mix of stores, international restaurants, and public spaces. Among these: Fidel’s café (where young rebels might gather), a store specializing in nuts, a restaurant called the Flying Burrito Brothers, Duck Island ice cream, a guitar store, and countless outdoor gear outfitters. Defying the gloomy weather was a cheerful rainbow crosswalk and a silly water-driven sculpture with buckets that would dump their contents in a flailing chain reaction. But despite these draws, Cuba Street was quiet. Many stores were closed, and few people were out, despite being a Sunday afternoon. Signs in the windows offered hints into the street’s challenges: help wanted, space available for rent, and public notices about earthquake safety shortfalls.

​Heading to the harbor, we dodged some construction and spotted a giant sculpture of a hand with a human face perched atop an art gallery. It was a lively scene with people out exploring in groups or walking dogs. We crossed a pedestrian bridge with wooden figures evoking a Maori boat, looked at rusty engravings on the locks of a lovers’ bridge, and watched locals jump from a tall diving platform into the chilly water below. Back at the apartment, we had a comforting meal of coconut curry noodles with potatoes and zucchini. We also split a small bottle of Excalibur mead from the Huka Honey Hive, which was similar to a dessert wine. We tasted it at room temp and also heated up – both excellent.

​The following day was a rare sunny day in Wellington! Unfortunately, Rachel wasn’t feeling well (understandable given all of her trans-Pacific travels and the rainy weather) so it was just Vincent and me. We navigated the treacherous narrow roads up into the hills, and headed for an eco-sanctuary called Zealandia.

Zealandia was a whopping 500 acres of land in a beautiful valley wedged between green mountains. Although there are no cages or exhibits, the perimeter is enclosed by walls that keep out mammalian predators – a Great Wall of sorts. The result is a protected paradise where the native bird species thrive.

​The map included a field guide to the most common birds, and we were thrilled to see most all of them. Fantails flitted through the trees, their signature tail fans popping open with surprising speed. Along the lake, a pied shag (cormorant) sat on a branch and preened its feathers. Deeper in the forest, a colorful saddleback doused itself in the river, showing off its orange markings and red wattle. The intense and agile tui waged their territorial battles, soaring between trees in a flash of iridescent blue wings. I loved the tui’s comical neck tuft, like a fluffy cotton ball attached as an afterthought.

​The real star of the show was the brown and orange parrot, known as the kaka. The kakas quickly caught our attention by swooping along the pedestrian paths, flashing their beautiful orange wings in the process. The best place to see them was the feeding stations, featuring weight activated containers that the smaller birds couldn’t trigger. True to parrot style, they were loud, intelligent, and a bit showy. They would do acrobatics in the trees, using their nimble claws and beaks to flip upside down. Those beaks could do some damage, as evidenced by one kaka ripping the bark off a tree. When frustrated with the smaller birds hovering around the food, the kakas would squawk to coordinate with their friends and leave for the next station.

​The walk through the ecopark was lovely, and included a suspension bridge, a walkway over a dam, a viewing platform, and a boardwalk along the river. Signboards scattered throughout the park provided a spotlight on each bird species, with descriptions of their behavior and significance in Maori culture.

​In the wetlands area, we were lucky to see a rare flightless bird called the takahe. Once thought to be extinct, it’s one of the Zealandia conservation success stories. Surprisingly large (roughly goose-sized) with subtle blue feathers and a large orange beak, the takahe groomed its feathers in peace on the other side of the bushes.

​The last animal sighting was not actually a bird, but a native reptile called the Tuatara. Larger than a lizard but smaller than an iguana, this chill dinosaur was hard to spot due to its partially obscured hangout spots. Thankfully, a park ranger had placed magnetic signs along the fence pointing out their location.

​After returning to the apartment for a quick lunch, Vincent and I drove up Mount Victoria for panoramic views overlooking the area. We could see the Wellington airport, with planes taking off to the south over the Cook Strait or descending over the bay from the north. The views of downtown Wellington were spectacular. A band of trees between the urban center and mountainous suburbs was an echo of the city’s original design, which had included a ring of parks. From the platform, we could also see exhausted joggers, intrepid mountain bikers, and swooping tui – all enjoying the good weather.

On the way down, we wanted to stop for gas but ended up on an accidental detour through hilly and narrow streets. We also struggled to find a grocery store with everything on our shopping list, trying the nearby convenience stores and Asian grocery before ending up at a Four Square. Rachel made a nice pasta dinner and we settled in for the night.
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On our last day in Wellington, the fog and mist was back with a vengeance. Thankfully, we were already planning to have a museum-focused day at the Te Papa, Wellington’s most popular museum. It was completely free to enter and featured a staggering diversity of exhibits.

​We started in the natural history wing, which had models of New Zealand’s unique birds like the kiwi and the now-extinct moa, a sort of giant ostrich. It also had interactive science exhibits on volcanoes, plate tectonics, tsunamis, and an earthquake simulator. Its most famous animal was a colossal squid, the heaviest invertebrate ever discovered. It was caught in 2007 near Antarctica and stuck in a vat of preservatives for the public to enjoy. While it was cool to see a real life “sea monster,” overall I found it revolting. The soft tissues were fraying and reminded me of the disfigured heart valves I would encounter in the Medtronic explant lab.

​The Te Papa also had a significant number of exhibits on Maori and Polynesian culture, both historical and modern. One gallery showcased the way that traditional wakas (canoes) have been used in modern commemorations. It also highlighted the modern rediscovery of Polynesian navigational techniques – such as using the stars, animals, and currents – by learning from the last living navigators with this knowledge. Some of the ancestral migration pathways on the Pacific, including from New Zealand to Tahiti, have now been successfully traversed by modern sailors using traditional methods. I also enjoyed learning about pounamu (greenstone) and its significance to the Maori.

​The next gallery focused on New Zealand’s history, charting the waves of immigration like the gold rushes of the 1860s, and explaining other “foreign imports” like kiwifruit, vegemite, and rugby. It also highlighted more modern immigration topics like the influx of Samoans and Tongans seeking work opportunities and the 1970s “dawn raids” targeting Pacific Islanders overstaying their visas.

We had a late lunch of sweet potatoes and lentils, plus some bacon for myself – a special treat. The misty weather encouraged a quiet afternoon. We returned the RAV to the rental car agency, conveniently a few blocks away. The agent was surprised to hear we had driven all the way from Auckland! And in the evening, while Rachel and Vincent went out on a date night to a vegan Italian restaurant, I had paneer masala and journaled.
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Wellington was a fun stop, with plenty of urban quirkiness but also a surprising amount of nature. And since we experienced both a sunny day and a foggy day, I felt we got to see both “sides” of the city!

The streak of good weather at the start of our New Zealand trip had finally ended. For the several days we spent in Taupo, periodic rain showers reminded us that it was still shoulder season (and also the green hills don’t come for free). Unfortunately, this meant the famous Tongariro Crossing hike wasn’t going to be feasible. However, it gave us bandwidth to fully embrace another of Taupo’s draws – the geothermally active land.
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We spent the day visiting two parks that celebrated the earth’s unearthly quirks: the Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland and the Waimangu Volcanic Valley. Both were major highlights of the trip!

​The walking path through the Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland provided one stunning feature after another. First were steaming mud lakes at the bottom of sinkholes. Some of the rocks were dusted with colorful mineral powders in shades of ferrous orange and tennis ball green. Then came the “artist’s palette” – a steaming lake with a crescent of eye-popping yellow just below the surface. The path turned into a footbridge crossing the sinter terraces, a vast plane of striated rock coated with a thin layer of water. A viewpoint looked out towards a set of interlocking lakes filled with pale green water.

​One of the prettiest features was the Champagne Lake, named for the fine bubbles that continuously break its dark blue surface. Even more striking was its belt of bright orange rock, a perfect contrast to the water. A constant cloud of steam rose from the surface of the lake, and when the wind blew towards us, we were enveloped in a natural sauna.

​But the craziest lake was the next one… it was the brightest shade of lime green you can imagine! It was honestly hard to believe it was natural, but a sign assured us it was due to minerals in the water refracting light. It also had a very acidic pH of 2. We were surprised to see birds brushing the surface without instantly turning into ceviche. ​We had no idea places like this existed on Earth.

​Outside of this walking loop, but still within the Thermal Wonderland, were two more features – the Lady Knox Geyser and the Mud Pools. The Lady Knox Geyser is triggered by pouring in organic soap, a nod to the way it was discovered – lumberjacks trying to do laundry in the naturally hot baths. Like a giant science fair volcano, the reaction caused a bubbly jet of foam to gradually build up, reaching 20 feet in the air, before gradually subsiding. It lasted around a minute, and was definitely worth the visit. Afterwards, the amphitheater full of tourists quickly dispersed, reminding us of an outdoor musical festival.

​The Mud Pools were a fan favorite among Vincent, Rachel, and myself. Each pool had its own personality. Some pools formed perfectly hemispherical bubbles at a constant rate. Others would wax and wane, each eruption launching a cluster of muddy confetti in the air. It was both silly and mesmerizing. Occasionally a loud burp from across the pool would startle us with its magnitude.

​Feeling jazzed about geothermal features, we headed over to the Waimangu Volcanic Valley for even more. At the entrance, we saw a pretty bird with green wings called a Keruru, which Vincent really liked and compared to the rare quetzal. (We later found out it’s a relatively common bird, and considered a type of pigeon… oops). The hike began at the top of the valley and descended through forests of ferns and blooming kanuka bushes.

The first thermal feature in this park was Frying Pan Lake, a large lake that constantly emitted steam. It’s actually the largest hot spring in the whole world! From the lake, a stream of boiling water trickled through a marsh of otherworldly greens and oranges. It was a work of art with bright, blended patterns. According to the park map, these vibrant colors come from deposits of antimony, molybdenum, arsenic, tungsten, and blue-green algae.

​Next on the trail was the serene Inferno Crater Lake. The bright blue waters were ringed by a curtain of tree-covered cliffs, channeling the rising steam. The lake is known for having a mysterious cycle of filling and draining over the course of several weeks, but of course, we only saw a snapshot in time.

​The final geothermal feature was the cute little Bird’s Nest Geyser. It was just a small cone in the ground constantly spurting boiling water, but it was surrounded with miniature terraces of green and orange. These varying colors are due to differences in water temperature, as blue-green algae can’t survive above 75 C. Something about it made me think of a mini golf course.

The path followed the boiling river downstream, and we passed a small boiling waterfall. The fact this waterfall was a mere footnote speaks to the amazing sights already packed into the day. We caught the bus back to the visitor center, and drove back to Taupo, still in awe at nature’s wonders.
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For dinner, I made a special treat: a riff on Mapo tofu using minimal ingredients, that I dubbed the “Taupo tofu.” It was a hit with the Thermal Explorers!

​The next morning, the rain continued so we did some light siteseeing in Taupo, including hopping out for a view of Huka Falls and a view of Lake Taupo. The real highlight was visiting the Huka Honey Hive, a bee-themed center with educational videos, honey tasting, and a well-stocked gift shop. The video featured a laidback Australian beekeeper who was totally at ease despite being covered with a whole swarm. We finally got to try manuka honey, a specialty type made from nectar of the manuka flower. They also had mead, honey gin, and honeycomb ice cream (known as Hokey Pokey). Soon, we had to separate ourselves from all the tempting treats.

​Our fearless driver Vincent took us across the mountains to Hawke’s Bay, about a 2 hour journey. We stayed at a cute AirBNB with light blue walls and a stellar view of the bay. It was still raining, but we ventured out to explore the town of Napier.

​Napier was destroyed by an earthquake in 1931 and rebuilt with special attention to architectural coherence. Many buildings were constructed in the style we now know as Art-Deco, featuring sharp lines, tidy facades, and colorful geometric trimmings. After so many nature-oriented sights, it was great to mix things up with a self-guided architecture tour. We also enjoyed the street art, browsing shops, and walking out to a pier above the dark sandy beach. One small detail we appreciated: the pedestrian stoplights had a dog included in the walk symbols!

​For dinner, we utilized the newly acquired honey to make honey-glazed NZ yams, accompanied by a supporting cast of asparagus, couscous, and hummus. A giant world map on the wall was a great conversation starter, and the cozy living room was a great journaling spot.

How often do you get to see two extremely different, one-of-a-kind places in a single day? Well, on Wednesday we visited both the Waitomo Glow Worm Caves and the Hobbiton Movie Set. Both were inconspicuously nestled in the remote hills of New Zealand’s North Island, but were totally worth the pilgrimage.
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From Hamilton, it was an hour drive to Waitomo, and Vincent and I arrived with plenty of time to spare. We even had time to refuel in Otorohanga, the self-proclaimed “Kiwiana Capital” featuring a colorful kiwi sculpture and places like the Fat Kiwi Café. When paying at gas stations, our American credit card wouldn’t work at the pump and had to be brought inside. Another customer at the adjacent pump saw our cards get declined, and offered help, striking up a friendly conversation about the places we’d be visiting – a great example of the local hospitality.

With the extra time in Waitomo, we went on a brief nature hike up to a viewpoint. The forest was lush with ferns and the hillsides dotted with purple foxgloves. 

​Back at the caves, the check-in desk was able to store our backpacks with key valuables in the office. We lined up by the cave entrance while a few latecomers were tracked down. (Meanwhile another tour guide emerged from the cave and jokingly asked: “what year is it?”) When assembled, our tour group was around ~12 people, including a few NZ locals and an Asian tour group with their own interpreter.

During the first part of the cave tour, we ducked under stalactites and peered down a river-carved chasm. Some of the walls were bumpy like cauliflower; others were smooth with prominent layers in the limestone. We descended down metal stairs, past a few stalagmite formations known as the Modern Art Gallery, and into the Cathedral, named for its size, acoustics, and organ-like formation. The guide encouraged someone to sing a song, and one of the Asian tourists offered a short but beautiful aria, surprising us with his professional-sounding tenor voice.

After a brief introduction to the glow-worm’s lifecycle, the guide told us to turn around and crouch down. Behind us, the low ceiling of the adjacent cave was covered with hundreds of blue dots! The group’s audible gasp was definitely merited. Though the light was a pale shade of blue, each larva’s glow was clear and visible – much stronger than the bioluminescent algae in Puerto Rico. Then the guide turned on a lamp, and suddenly revealed silky strings dangling from the ceiling that weren't visible in the dark. The larvae use these strings to catch prey, like a vertical spiderweb. The effect was of an alien landscape, like the Tree of Souls from the Avatar movie. It was the second gasp of the tour, again merited.
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The final stage of the tour was a boat ride along the river running through the cave. Climbing on board in the sparingly lit cave passageway felt like boarding an amusement park ride. But unlike your average ride, the guide stood at the bow and manually pulled the entire boat using a series of cables that strung from wall to wall. With no engine to break the cave’s silence, we glided through the darkness and looked up at the ceiling. It was covered in a thousand glow-worms. Dense constellations, like a natural planetarium. It was spectacular! Photos weren’t allowed, as the caves are sacred to the Maori, so the group simply enjoyed this otherworldly light show.

​The river exited the cave, and soon we were back in the car. It was another 1.5 hours of driving through small farming towns. After a particularly scenic stretch, with more flocks of sheep than cars, we arrived at the “Shire’s Rest” – the visitor center for the Hobbiton Movie Set Tour. We had plenty of time to eat lunch and peruse the gift shop, which was full of Lord of Rings posters, figurines, merchandise, and even a life-size Gandalf statue.

​To begin the tour, we boarded a green bus and drove across the ridge to a secluded valley on the Anderson family’s sheep and cattle ranch. When Peter Jackson was looking for a filming location for the Shire, he had three conditions: green hills, a lake, and a large tree. The ranch met all these – it was first identified during a flyover. Unfortunately, the Anderson sheep were deemed too modern looking and didn't make the cut - instead, sheep from elsewhere in New Zealand were brought in for the occasion.
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After the original trilogy was filmed, the set was actually demolished but fans kept on finding their way in. So when Peter Jackson returned to film the Hobbit trilogy, the Anderson family asked to make the sets permanent as a tourism opportunity.

​The morning clouds had moved on, and the fluffy grass was sparkling in the bright afternoon sun. A total of 44 hobbit holes were built into the hillsides, decorated with props hinting at the personality of each hobbit. The houses were only facades (the interior scenes were filmed in the studio) but the exteriors were full of life. We visited the houses via a well-maintained walking path, with strategically placed hedges to hide the other tour groups on the circuit. Hobbits love to garden, and their front yards were bursting with beautiful flowers of all shades. Yellow wildflowers filled in the gaps in between the yards – an embarrassment of riches.

​The tour was led by a knowledgeable guide, who explained the history of the filming, the key features of the set, and of course, where famous scenes were shot. The other guests came from all over the world, and a few came dressed as elves. It’s amazing to think that Lord of Rings probably inspired many of them to visit New Zealand in the first place – at least, that’s how it was for me!

​From Bag End, the most famous hobbit hole at the top of the hill, we walked past a scenic lake and across the stone bridge to the Green Dragon pub. Our tour included a complimentary amber ale or ginger beer in the cozy interior. Between the pastoral scenery and pub atmosphere, the site evoked the English countryside.  Fun fact, when filming the Shire party scenes, the actors were unknowingly given beer with only 1% alcohol to prevent any mishaps!

Hobbiton was such a unique destination. The gorgeous landscapes were absolutely marvelous on a sunny spring day. The iconic movie sets were seamlessly integrated into the hills and jam-packed with loving details. But unlike visiting an artificial theme park, the natural elements and fantasy elements were blended together, elevating the site into a real-world utopia.
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During the final drive of the day, the rolling green hills were replaced with volcanic domes and bushes of dense yellow flowers. We took a secluded country road, and it made all the difference.

Soon we arrived in the town of Taupo, alongside a lake of the same name, and checked into the AirBNB. Our place overlooked the Waikato River – a little slice of paradise. Dinner was another improvised recipe that turned out well (coconut curry noodles with chickpeas and potatoes).
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Our first day in Taupo was a rest day, much needed after all the tours and driving. We picked up some groceries at the local Four Square, and I took advantage of the nice clothesline and did some laundry. Vincent and I also went for a short hike along the Waikato River, up to a bungee jumping point with a great view of the light blue waters.

​In parallel, Rachel made all of her bus connections and arrived in Taupo with her new passport. It was a whiplash journey to LA and back, in just a few days!

​To end this post on a sweet note, I discovered a special kind of “Tasmanian Mint” Kit Kat with dark chocolate and a lovely green swirl. A real treat!

The pace of the trip was drastically changed by the introduction of a new character… the rental car! Vincent and I took an Uber from downtown Auckland, across the Harbor Bridge, and into the suburbs to pick up our White 2018 RAV from Bargain Rental Cars. From there, we headed 3 hours north towards the Bay of Islands.
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Driving on the left side of the road was definitely an adjustment, and Vincent did a great job throughout the day (and the trip in general). The suburbs and wide freeways were a much better place to start than downtown Auckland, but some of the curvy mountain roads in the Northlands were still tricky. In particular, it was stressful using the passing lane to get around slow trucks while keeping track of the curves, hills, and oncoming traffic. I helped out with the navigation, but it was a pretty direct route to Paihia. The scenery was a mix of forests and pleasant rolling green hills with plump sheep. Fields of wildflowers reminded us we were lucky to be visiting in spring.

​Paihia was a classic small beach town, with bay views, a pier, a few tourist shops, and one main road perpendicular to the oceanfront road. We checked into the AirBNB and had lunch on the patio, a nice respite after the challenging morning of driving. I decided to add on an extra adventure in the afternoon, and had Vincent drop me off at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds about 5 minutes away.

​Part of my visit to Waitangi was a Maori cultural performance. We stood outside the wharenui, the wooden meeting house, while a guide explained the first part of the ceremony. Until the hosts had established our intentions (peace or conflict), we had to stay a certain distance away. Then, the hosts emerged from the wharenui, shouting and trumpeting with a conch, and stared us down from the front porch. A young warrior with a pelt and a spear came forward to intimidate any nefarious guests with intense shouting and a presentation of arms. He also offered a plant symbolizing peace, which our newly appointed “chief” (a fellow tourist) accepted. We were then welcomed into the wharenui, minus shoes and hats.

​The walls were decorated with carved wooden figurines with tongues stuck out in defiance and shimmering abalone eyes. The ceremony continued with a blessing from our host chief, both in Maori and English. He explained that the main instrument used nowadays is the guitar, and proceeded to strum the chords while an ensemble of 6-7 performers sang the “ancient song” and an accompanying dance. There were also several demonstrations, including poi twirling (balls on strings that are spun in the air), tossing short sticks while dancing, and spear fighting maneuvers. While the performers were all friendly and welcoming, an enemy would definitely find their guttural shouts, eyes stretched wide, and spear-work to be quite intimidating.

​Afterwards, a tour guide with ancestors who signed the Waitangi Treaty gave us a walking tour of the historical site and more context about the key players. He spoke softly, and with a cadence that blurred together the punctuation between sentences, but I found him to be quite knowledgeable and funny. He considered himself a “Maori Polynesian” (as opposed to just Maori) due to his sense of connection with the greater Polynesian culture. I was surprised to learn that the Polynesians reached New Zealand circa 1300, much later than I would have guessed. We toured the house of James Busby, a British official who facilitated New Zealand’s declaration of independence and the 1840 treaty that established a partnership between the Maori and British. Our guide also pointed out the native plants and herbs growing on the property, as well as a large Maori war canoe made of giant kauri trees.

​I had a brief chance to visit the museum exhibit about the Waitangi Treaty, which was very well designed and had a balanced approach to exploring the motivations for both sides. It also pointed out some of the problematic aspects of the treaties, like subtle differences in meaning of the English and Maori versions of the document, British transgressions over time, and the Maori protests. I was fascinated by anecdotes about Maori chiefs traveling to London in the 1820s to mingle with elite British and advance Maori interests, like access to European weapons. The museum suggested that because New Zealand is such a remote place and both the Maori and British were bold enough to reach it on their own, that despite the clash of cultures, there was a shared character present at nation’s founding.

​It was a pleasant walk along the coast to get from the museum back into Paihia. We had some leftovers for dinner, and prepared for a busy few days. One errand was grocery shopping, but as luck would have it, the Countdown we visited was about to permanently close in a week. There weren’t many items left during this “Final Countdown.” Thankfully, the second store was well-stocked.

​The next morning, we checked out of the AirBNB, dropped our backpacks at the tour operator’s office, and boarded our cruise on the Bay of Islands. The weather was a bit cloudy and rainy at first, but a few pockets of sunshine emerged as the day went on. The first main stop was a striking island called Motuarihoa, also known as Robertson’s Island, a location where Captain Cook had stopped while exploring (and naming) the Bay of Islands. There were brilliant views from the hilltop. To the left were the dark waters facing the open ocean; to the right were the cerulean blue waters of the protected cove.

​On the next part of the cruise, the plastic windows were lowered to protect us from the open ocean spray as we picked up speed (and turbulence) and jetted all the way to the Cape Brett lighthouse and went through the famous Hole in the Rock.

​The final stop was at an island called Urupukapuka. We disembarked at Otehei Bay and were given a free hour to explore. Vincent and I hiked over a hill to Urupukapuka Bay and were treated to a secluded cove with vibrant green grass and a nice beach. A few sheep grazed in the distance, until they were chased off by a shepherd in an orange vest, and two herding dogs (also in orange vests).

​The remainder of the day was less magical. I made my left-side driving debut, but wasn’t used to the wide RAV so the narrow curvy roads were tricky, and my canned Boss coffee didn’t kick in as strongly as I was counting on. Vincent tagged back in and completed the remainder of the grueling 5-hour drive to Hamilton, including traffic jams and narrow lanes in Auckland. Thankfully the daylight lasted until we arrived in Hamilton, in a college neighborhood. I jumped into action and cooked a Mediterranean themed dinner with the shelf-stable ingredients that had made the journey with us. It ended up being a great meal of cous cous, pita, sauteed carrots and chickpeas, and hummus made with a potato masher. We settled into our rooms, both exhausted.

​​The Bay of Islands adventure was a nice reminder that sometimes even a few key hours – of island hopping, or the Waitangi cultural experience – can be extremely memorable, and justify the hours of difficult travel conditions. It was special having so much history and natural beauty in one place!

​The globetrotters have reunited! Upon my arrival at the Nadi airport in Fiji, I was greeted by more than just a ukelele band and a customs agent. Vincent and Rachel, fresh from their Southeast Asia travels, had spent the past days on Fiji and arranged their flights so we would travel to Auckland as a trio. During our airport wait, they brought me into the airport lounge as a guest, and we started catching up over delicious pineapple, papaya, and chia pudding.

​The Fiji Airways planes were very modern, and the movie touchscreens had a delightful feature – a live camera showing the view down from the belly of the plane. While Rachel admired the views through the window, and Vincent chanced a few looks from the middle, I could envision our descent over the Hauraki Gulf even from the aisle seat. The milky blue water, green islands outlined in sand, and friendly clouds were a stunning introduction to Aotearoa, the place we know as New Zealand.

Getting into downtown Auckland was a breeze. The custom kiosk was fully automated, the biosecurity agents had no interest in my granola bars, and our Uber arrived before we could even return the luggage cart. The next 4 nights, we stayed at a studio apartment owned by the mysterious Host Z in the Central Business District (often just the “CBD”). Check-in required a series of lockboxes, electronic fobs, and counter-intuitive doors – thankfully, Vincent and Rachel had studied the check-in instructions carefully. The apartment featured a small but functional kitchen, access to a gym and pool, and a great location on Queen St, a main thoroughfare. Our first adventure was grocery shopping at Countdown, a modern and well-stocked supermarket, complete with a fleet of dystopian self-checkouts that required manual assistance at an alarming frequency. The ingredients were quickly converted into a tasty dinner of coconut curry with tofu.
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Fueled by a breakfast of cinnamon oatmeal with blueberries, the “Kiwi Trio” took to the streets for our first proper day of exploring New Zealand. We stuck our heads into the modern theater in Aotea Square, strolled through the greenery of Albert Park, and peeked at storefront called Zodiak, a business that helps people turn their property into vacation rentals (perhaps the identity of our mysterious Host Z?) One highlight was the Auckland Art Gallery, where (for free!) we could view a number of works by New Zealand artists, including majestic portraits of notable Maori leaders. The gallery also had some entertaining modern art, like a wall-sized photo we viewed with 3D glasses and a satirical video installation about German forests.

Continuing the walk, we passed the upscale stores of the CBD until we reached the elegant ferry building, a scene that evoked San Francisco. Several wharfs offered good views of the harbor and the city skyline, dominated by the needle-like Sky Tower. In the Wynard Quarter, lively resto-bars with funny names like the “Good Luck Coconut” blasted pop tunes against a backdrop of siloes, shipyards, parklets, and enormous recliner chairs. The last wharf had a fleet of historical yachts with placards explaining their significance, plus a good view of the Harbor Bridge.

Traversing a hilly green park with enormous playground slides, we headed back into the main part of town towards the Sky Tower. Our attempt to cut through the Sky City casino was unsuccessful, as our passport copies weren’t considered a valid ID to enter the gambling area. We eventually found our way to the entrance and took the elevator up 51 floors to the observation deck.

Another evening, another home-cooked meal. Mushroom and kale pasta hit the spot after our lap around the city. After a few too many charcuterie packs in Europe, it was nice to “take a leaf” from Rachel and Vincent and embrace their plant-based diet. The apartment included access to a gym and pool, so I went for a little swim.

On Saturday, we joined the masses lined up at the ferry terminal. Destination: Waiheke Island! As the boat picked up speed and the wind intensified, many view-seekers took refuge in the decks below, but we stayed upstairs and watched the Auckland skyline disappear into the ferry’s wake. On Waiheke, we set forth on a lovely coastal hike that connected several beautiful bays. The trailhead was right next to the ferry terminal, and the crowd quickly vanished once we stepped onto the barnacle-encrusted beach. The color palette was remarkable – milky blue waters below, lush green hills above, brown and orange rocks in between. While the amazing views encouraged us to slow down, the joy of rounding each turn and catching a glimpse of the next yacht-studded bay encouraged us forward.

​Our ticket included access to a Hop On/Off bus that connected all the major sites on this otherwise sparse island. We rode from Onera to another noteworthy beach called Onetangi. We soaked in the great weather and strolled its length. Alongside us were fellow visitors, frolicking dogs, red-billed seagulls, and oystercatchers (a black bird with a long orange beak). Live acoustic pop music from the neighboring restaurant was our soundtrack while we dusted the sand off our bare feet.

​From the second floor of the double-decker tour bus, we enjoyed the scenery and the guide’s jokes as the vehicle strained up a tall hill towards Batch Winery. There, I “dropped off” Vince and Rachel for wine tasting with a panoramic view, then starting hiking downhill into the sub-tropical forest for a little extra mileage. Mixed into the canopy were towering silver ferns, the unofficial symbol of New Zealand, which looked like palm trees on steroids. A side loop trail took me to a pleasant stream, while the main trail led down to a beach that was closed to protect the nests of the endangered New Zealand dotterel, a cute shorebird. It was a steep and muddy hike from the beach back to the winery.

​To end our Waiheke day trip on a high note, we did a tasting at Mudbrick Winery, a popular and scenic spot looking towards Auckland. The tasting flight was a solid lineup featuring pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, rose, and syrah. The sauvignon blanc was my favorite, and I enjoyed a follow-up glass in the late afternoon sun. A pair of ducks wandered from table to table, amusing until they snapped at you. We caught the last bus, which was synchronized to the ferry departures, and soon found ourselves back in Auckland along with a flock of tipsy tourists.

After two full days of sightseeing, we took Sunday as a rest and recharge day. Rachel headed off to LA to get her passport renewed, while Vincent and I stayed at the apartment, catching up on digital chores. We sauteed some red “oca” yams for lunch (from South America but popular in New Zealand), went to the gym together, and meal prepped large quantity of pasta. With these marathon journeys, the rest days are an equally important feature of the itinerary.
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Auckland and Waiheke were a brilliant start to the trip. Of course, the sunny weather played a large part. We thought Auckland was very clean and modern, but also had personality. And on Waiheke, it was so unique to have easy access to both world-class hiking and world-class vineyards on a single scenic island.

I decided to end my trip in Vienna for several reasons: I wanted to make the pilgrimage to this classical music capital, see the beautiful Hapsburg architecture, and it was a convenient major airport on my northward arc through Croatia and Slovenia. However, by the time I made it to the city, I was very worn down from my northward travels and not yet ready for siteseeing! So I started with some R&R.