If my first days in Melbourne were defined by the Australian Open and a home base in the CBD, my next days were defined by apartment hunting and a home base in South Melbourne.
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I stayed with a Servas host named Gail, a native Melburnian and consumer safety consultant. She had recently moved from a distant suburb to South Melbourne to be closer to the thriving city center. It was generous of her to host me despite the recent move. She had a cat named Katie, a beautiful long-haired calico. Katie was shy – in part because she was adjusting to the new house – but still would hop up on Gail’s lap, joining us for dinner or a watch party.

​The first evening, Gail made a salmon salad, and we had a nice introductory conversation. Gail was well-travelled, having done many vacations and work trips around the world, and had great stories. She had even traveled in the American South and had an excellent playlist of blues, soul, and Americana music. Her music recommendations were one of the highlights of the stay. She introduced me to a Tongan-Australian duo, Vika and Linda, whose song “Hard Love” was an instant favorite. With dinner, we also had some delicious ginger wine, plus figs & ice cream for dessert.

The next morning, I embarked on another exploratory walking tour to get the lay of the land. On the way out of South Melbourne, I picked up a delicious bahn mi and Vietnamese coffee and ate at the nearby Albert Park. The park had a lovely lake with tons of waterfowl, an athletic complex, and lots of dirt running paths. Large black swans had numbered collars around their long and flexible necks, like racing bibs. Albert Park is also the location of the Melbourne Grand Prix, an annual Formula One race. Even in January, they were already setting up the grandstands for March.

​Between Albert Park and Chapel Street were a mix of busy commuter streets and quiet leafy residential blocks. Chapel Street was the real draw, a trendy shopping and dining street that extends from Windsor into Prahran. I walked its length, getting a sense of its character – a mix of tasty international cuisines, cheerful stores with potted houseplants, barbershops, and thrift shops, but with some vacancies too.

I stopped by the tiny Prahran Square library but didn’t linger – some shabby men were making a commotion in the park outside and a kids’ audiobook was loudly playing inside. The South Yarra / Toorak library was a much nicer place to stay. It was a short walk away, but in the elite suburb of Toorak. It’s considered the second highest earning postcode in all of the Australia! From a quiet corner, I dug into the housing search.

Approaching the search was a bit daunting, as it’s a large city with so many different suburbs. I initially focused on the ones I had visited, like Richmond and East Melbourne, or the ones that looked like they had access to the Yarra River trails, like South Yarra and Abbotsford. After not having much luck in these areas, I widened the search to include coastal suburbs like St. Kilda and Middle Park. But a few days into the fruitless search, I nixed the constraint of proximity to running trails, and that opened things up.

The three apartment websites I focused on were Facebook Marketplace, Flatmates, and RealEstate.com.au. Facebook Marketplace had more dubious options but overall lower prices. This turned out to be a double-edged sword. While the prices were more appealing, the people I contacted were all overwhelmed with inquiries from other people with the same idea. On the opposite side of the spectrum, the listings on RealEstate were generally targeted for longer-term leases. A post on RealEstate that didn’t specify the lease duration quickly shot me down when I reached out inquiring about a 5 month stay. Flatmates was more promising. There were some lease takeovers that were a shorter duration, a range of quality/price to spread out the competition, and a sense that real people were creating the posts – they often gave background on the various housemates’ personalities in a funny and friendly way.

Unfortunately, even with shifting my price range higher and focusing on Flatmates, housing was still competitive. Out of ~20 people I contacted, only 2 agreed to show me the place. The first one I saw, in South Yarra, was given away 5 minutes before I arrived. It was frustrating, but the room was pretty shabby so I got over it quickly. The second opportunity was in Richmond, but the poster didn’t seem very friendly and had a 100% response rate, so I figured I wasn’t going to be the only one inspecting it. I added the appointment to my calendar but mentally flagged it as very unlikely.
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I rode the tram from Toorak back to South Melbourne, picked up some groceries, and caught up with Gail. It was a nice summer day and we had some Aperol spritzes. I started on dinner, making my signature red curry chicken as a token of appreciation to my host. After, we watched an interesting TV program called Australian Story that focused each episode on an extraordinary Aussie. The first was about a motivational speaker dealing with his own family demons, and the second was a young violin duo that took a non-traditional path to fame through making parody YouTube videos. Continuing the music theme, Gail brought out a steel-tongue drum she had recently acquired, with a mesmerizing sound quality that could accompany a meditation session.

The next day, I walked to the Botanical Gardens to meet Zeah, the guitar teacher who I met at Suzuki conventions in Italy and California. She was a close colleague of my teacher Frank Longay. Without realizing, I had reached out to her on the anniversary of Frank’s passing.

Zeah was probably the first Australian I can remember meeting – I would have been 10 years old at the time. She taught one of the group sessions at the Torino event, and I still remember her enthusiasm as a teacher. As a parting gift, she gave us little koalas that could clip onto our guitars, and I still have mine – over the years, a subliminal ad for Australia. I now wonder if meeting Zeah and hearing of a faraway place called “Melbin” from an early age had sparked my interest in the city.
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It was so great to see Zeah and catch up as we walked around the gardens. Her Suzuki studio is still active, though the pandemic and economy have impacted the student pipeline, and visa/funding challenges have put a damper on international teacher exchanges. She pointed out and named some of the birds and plants in the garden, a small thing that I really appreciated. We picked up lattes at the Terrace café, settled on a shady bench, and continued chatting about mutual friends, living in Melbourne, guitar repertoire, etc. We agreed that somewhere, Frank was smiling.

​From the gardens, I set out to explore more suburbs that kept appearing in my searches – Fitzroy and Collingwood. It was a hot day but I still managed to walk there. I passed the Melbourne Cricket Grounds and cut through the majestic, shady Fitzroy Gardens. My reward was another Vietnamese lunch.

I did a mini tour of the area, walking down Gertrude Street and Smith Street, considered one of the “coolest” streets in the world. It was indeed vibrant and full of interesting shops, a little more artsy and grungy than Chapel Street. To continue the housing search, I camped at the Fitzroy Library and made more fruitless inquiries.

I took the 96 tram from Fitzroy to South Melbourne. Unfortunately, when I arrived at the house, I learned that Gail had come down with COVID, likely from an outing with a friend before I arrived. Prior to this development, we had been discussing the possibility of extending my 3-night stay to a full week so I could cat-sit while Gail was out of town. That idea no longer made sense, as Gail had cancelled her weekend plans and we now had the inconvenience of masking and isolating in the house. I ate some leftover curry in the backyard, a return to outdoor dining, and booked an AirBNB for later in the week.

I decided to pivot my strategy and focus on a few housing companies with larger portfolios of properties. I’d seen a few pop up on Flatmates, but when I checked out their websites, I was pleasantly surprised to see an emphasis on “mid term” renters like myself. LiveComfy and FlexiStayz were the main two options. LiveComfy was centered within the CBD, but I didn’t like the idea of being up high on the 24th or 30th floor and wasn’t as interested in the CBD in general. FlexiStayz was centered around Carlton and Brunswick, two northern suburbs. I started getting familiar with the specific properties available.
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The next morning, I took a barista course offered by a vocation school, RGIT. Since Melbourne is known for its coffee culture, it seemed like a great “local” experience. I mainly did it for fun, but it was also a practical foundation for potentially working as a barista during my working holiday.

The instructor Carlos was from Argentina and his accent was a little hard to understand, but he was good at repeating and emphasizing the key points. He started with some of the basics of espresso drinks and machines. The class of 7 was an interesting mix – a few younger people hoping for a barista job, a few coffee enthusiasts like me, and two Indian ladies adding coffee to their food truck menu.

Most of the course was hands-on! First, we optimized the coarseness of our espresso grinders to get the extraction time in the optimal range (25-35 seconds). Then we worked on using the steamer attachment to froth and heat the milk. It was quite finicky to get the nozzle at the right depth to create the “crema” (foam), adjusting the height, and waiting for the right quantity of foam to develop. Thankfully there was ample opportunity to practice – I probably made around 50 espresso drinks in the four-hour session! Of course, we could drink as much as we liked, but most were poured down the drain – a very unnatural feeling for a coffee lover.

​I shared a station with a Melburnian who wanted to better utilize his espresso machine at home. Our final task was working as a team to fulfill a batch order. It was really hard to create the right amount of foam and split it between pitchers when each drink required a different ratio of milk/foam. Carlos used a spoon to check the amount of foam, giving us simple but constructive feedback.

When the course was done, I had a fast-food lunch at Hungry Jack’s, the Australian version of Burger King. I ordered the Aussie Whopper, featuring slices of beetroot. A tasty and unexpected fusion food. Gail asked me to pick up a physical newspaper while I was out, and I stalked the CBD in search of one. It was difficult in the digital age, but I found one at Flinders Station. I traveled across town to inspect the South Yarra apartment (that was given away right before I arrived) and then walked back to South Melbourne.

After a thorough review of FlexiStayz’s properties, I narrowed it down to a few that either had a private bathroom or proximity to running paths. I gave them a call and successfully made an appointment to see my top choice in Carlton.
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For dinner, I checked out a local spot that Gail recommended called Clay Pots Evening Star. There was supposed to be live music (Gail had even called ahead to confirm) but for some reason it wasn’t on. I stayed and had a fish called a red mullet with a glass of Adelaide sauvignon blanc. I had never tried red mullet and picked it because the menu had a little anecdote about the largest red mullets being highly prized by Romans. It was the kind of seafood restaurant with a chalkboard menu and several prices next to each fish, indicating the larger and smaller pieces, that were crossed out with each new order. I was seated by the window with the perfect mix of fresh breeze from the outside and the tantalizing aromas from the open kitchen inside. The fish was a little oversalted, but the experience was memorable.

It was Thursday night and the eve of Australia Day, celebrated every year on January 26th. While the holiday inspires patriotism, it also inspires counter-protests under the label of Invasion Day. A little bit like Columbus Day vs. Indigenous People’s Day in the US. In any case, the winner of the “Australian of the Year” award was being presented on TV. Among many worthy nominees, it went to a pair of researchers who were pioneers in using immunotherapy for treating melanoma.

It was the last morning of my Servas stay, and I made a final round of avocado toast using the delicious seed bread from the South Melbourne market. Then, I hopped on the tram to Carlton to check out the potential apartment. It was close to Lygon Street, the heart of Melbourn’s Little Italy.

I was met by the FlexiStayz agent, Paola, who showed me the building. It had around a dozen rooms and a large, shared kitchen. The specific unit was on the second floor, tucked in the back corner, away from the street. The room was currently occupied, and extremely messy, but it gave me the impression I needed.

After the tour, I indicated my interest, and Paola prepared the lease agreement on the spot. We sat in the living room while the paperwork and payment were completed. The room wouldn’t be available until a few days later, but this was no issue, as I had an AirBNB already lined up for the next few nights.

The price was $450 AUD per week, which is slightly below the median rent in Melbourne ($515/week). This translates to about $1,180 USD per month, or about $40 USD per night. Thankfully, the apartment came fully furnished and all utilities were included in the rent.

Could there have been better places, or better deals out there? Probably, but not without prolonging the search. The ability to customize the lease duration was definitely a key factor in the decision. Plus, having a place lined up gave me a lot of peace of mind after an increasingly glum week of hunting.
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To celebrate, I swung by the South Melbourne Market and picked up two pastries from the popular patisserie I had been eyeing. One was a delicious square pastry filled with almond paste.

​My first impression of Melbourne was through the lens of the Australian Open, or as the locals call it, the Tennis. “Are you here to see the Tennis?” was a common question in casual conversations. Indeed, the Tennis had a large presence in the city, beyond the arena complex itself. Around the city there were posters with the tournament’s slogan, “AO Hits Different,” numerous pedestrians wearing sleek AO hats, and extra staff at the tram stations advising fans on the best tram routes to the grounds. The main square, Federation Square, had a big screen livestreaming matches for the general public to enjoy, complete with lawn chairs and umbrellas. Smaller screens, filled with the recognizable blue court, could be spotted at the floating bars and riverside restaurants along the Yarra. In the Richmond neighborhood, storefronts had giant stickers with the silhouettes of tennis players. Even the high-end jewelry stores at the Crown Casino complex had tennis balls added to the window displays. The Tennis was both a tourist hit and a source of local pride. It was fun to see such universal enthusiasm for sporting event.

​Melbourne was also the final phase of the siblings trip. The four of us took an Uber from the airport into the CBD, where we stayed on the 15th floor of a building across from the Sea Life aquarium. The AirBNB had wonderful views looking towards the Yarra River, the Southbank skyscrapers, and the Melbourne Cricket Grounds. The place had modern trappings, but over time we realized it was run by a problematic host. The listing advertised a hairdryer; we couldn’t find it, so we sent the host a message. Instead of replying to the question, they quietly deleted the hairdryer from the AirBNB listing. Where previous guests had left negative reviews, the host had retaliated with brutal attacks. So even though the Wifi was non-functional, a major let-down in the heart of the city, we decided not to complain.

​Val only had one night in Melbourne, so despite the residual exhaustion from our Kangaroo Island getaway, Rachel and I joined her for a little exploring. We walked through the Flagstaff Gardens to the Queen Victoria Market, which was normally closed at night but had a special Wednesday summer event. There were hundreds of stalls, including chic clothing, books and stationery, music performances, and a smorgasbord of food options. It was also quite crowded; one had to be mindful of the kids holding skewers of spiral potatoes.

​For food, Val and Rachel had tofu bao, Nepalese momos, and Italian panzerottis. I had a Sri Lankan combo plate; the curry, fermented veggies, and roti were delicious. We also ordered sangria from the Running Bull, a tent with the cute slogan “run with it.” (My new motto for the working holiday?) We continued browsing, picked up some Thai food for Vince, and headed back to the place.

Val began the task of repacking her suitcase, including items that Vince, Rachel, and I were sending back to California. We were all grateful that she brought a large suitcase and was so generous with taking on our stuff. She was off to the airport the next morning, with Hawaii as her next destination.
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The siblings trip was such a treat. We all agreed there were some real stand-out days: exploring Sydney Harbor, snorkeling in the GBR, wine tasting in Adelaide, and our Kangaroo Island safari. The stars aligned to make the trip possible. Soon, we were all dispersed across the globe again.

Vince and Rachel went to the Australian Open for 3 days, soaking in as much of the Tennis as they could. I joined them for the first night match at Rod Laver (the main court), which originally was going to be their first match as well. However, after seeing the players and prices for the day match, they added on an upfront session! They got to see both  Iga Swiatek, the #1 women’s seed, and the rising star “Carlitos” Alcaraz, Rachel’s favorite player.

​In the meantime, I had a little time to start exploring the city. I started with a pint-sized adventure: going to the City Library to get a visitor library card. Since our place didn't have Wifi, the library was also an oasis of free, fast Wifi to start my apartment/job hunting. After, I stopped at a Woolworth’s for groceries, where a homeless guy got into a fight with the security guard. I hung out at the AirBNB, snacking and waiting for the right time to join the others at the Tennis.

​The afternoon tennis match went very long, which ate into the buffer before the evening match. As a result, Rachel and Vince didn’t have a chance to explore the grounds on the first day. Since it was my one and only day with a ticket, I walked the grounds by myself and took in the atmosphere.

It was a sunny day and it was the transition time between matches, so the grounds were bustling. In between the larger main courts, there were patios with a canopies of artistic shade structures, bars and luxury suites hosted by brands like Rolex and Tanqueray, a smattering of gift shops and food vendors, and even a bunch of ping pong tables for families to enjoy. I stood by a footbridge that overlooked the dozen or so smaller courts, which showed the magnitude of the tournament at this early stage (it was only Day 5). It was more of a party atmosphere than say, Wimbledon. The tournament’s modern branding included lots of colorful cartoonish murals with positive messaging. It had plenty to offer for the "eventists" - people who visit the grounds for the ambience, without going to any matches.

​It was finally time to enter Rod Laver arena for the evening matches. Our seats were above the TV cameras and had the classic view that you’d see on TV, with some minor blockage from the equipment and the people in front of us. The rows were quite narrow, and we were in the middle of the block, which discouraged us from getting up during the match. At convenient moments, we each ventured out for food or warm beverages.

​The first match featured the #3 women’s seed, Elena Rybakina, the Russian-born Kazakhstani player. At this early stage of the tournament, a competitive match wasn’t expected. Rybakina was playing against Anna Blinkova, an underdog (underdingo?) who ultimately pulled an upset and defeated the #3 seed. It was a long and competitive match. After each player took one set, the final set went into a tense tiebreaker. Per the rules, the winner was the first to 10 points with a +2 lead. Both players managed to win points when they were on the brink of losing, and the final score ended up being 22-20. At 42 points, this was the longest tiebreaker in history! The crowd’s excitement (and incredulity) increased with each additional point. It was a spectacular match to witness. Blinkova was charming and funny in her interview, even after this inspiring athletic feat.

​The second match featured the #3 men’s seed, Daniil Medvedev, against Finnish underdog Emil Ruusuvuori. The young Fin took the first two sets, frustrating Medvedev (and his coach). Medvedev took a timeout for a medical check, which could have been a stalling tactic. By this point, it was 1:30am and we were getting cold. We left with Medvedev’s fate uncertain – was another upset of a #3 seed in store? When we woke up the next day, we discovered Medvedev had made a comeback and survived the challenge. It was great to see him play, as he would later reach the finals and earn second place overall!

​On the second day of tennis, Vince and Rachel returned to the grounds while I went on another mini adventure. First, I went down to the building’s gym and ran 5k on the treadmill. The AirBNB key fob didn’t actually have access to the gym, but someone was leaving as I arrived and let me in. ​Later, I headed west to the Docklands area to another public library. It was within the free tram zone, a nice feature of the CBD. My first Melbourne tram ride! The library was modern and had several floors, ping pong tables, and a makerspace. On the way back, I cut through the busy Southern Cross train station, and picked up more supplies at the Woolworth’s embedded in the station. I spent the evening at the apartment, snacking on Yumi’s falafel and hummus, until the tennis crew came back.

​On the third day of tennis, I took the tram east and did a self-guided walking tour through East Melbourne, Richmond, the Botanical Gardens, and Southbank. As before, I used the libraries as anchor points. The East Melbourne library was stylish and modern, reflecting the affluence of this suburb. 

Heading into Richmond, I enjoyed the variety of shops along Bridge St. The two-story Victorian houses, quirky stores, trams, and foot traffic evoked a flatter version of San Francisco. The quieter Church St lived up to its name, with an abundance of charming churches.

​Across the river, the Botanical Gardens were spacious but lively. There were couples enjoying wine on picnic blankets, a busy café called The Terrace where I got an iced coffee, and a kids’ playground with goofy-shaped topiaries. I skirted the edge of the Shrine of Remembrance, a prominent WWI monument, and made a mental note to visit the museum later. ​Now in Southbank, I visited a small wine shop to pick out a gift for my Servas host – a Barossa grenache. ​

I swung by the Crown casino complex, which had some dazzling interiors and fancy shops. The exit was just a few blocks from the AirBNB, completing a giant loop around the Australian Open grounds.

​Rachel and Vince returned from the afternoon tennis, and we had a pesto pasta meal together while sharing stories from the day. Amazingly, they got into a selfie with Carlos Alcaraz! Apparently after he was done practicing, and a loud fan asked him to take a selfie with the kids in front. Someone offered up their phone, and Carlos obliged. Not only did the photo include the whole crowd, but the phone’s owner actually texted it out. Another unique, “only at the AO” experience.

​It was now Rachel and Vince’s last day in Melbourne, and they carved out some time to explore outside of the tennis bubble. We checked out of the AirBNB, and I made a side trip to my Servas host in South Melbourne to say hello and drop off my bags (more on the Servas stay in the next post). Then we rendezvoused at a shopping mall in the CBD, where the other two were stocking up on western goods before heading to the Middle East and Africa. ​The mall had just about everything they needed, but the most elusive item turned out to be a Kindle. We visited an Officeworks and inquired; they had one left in stock, but they wouldn’t hand the box over the counter so that Rachel could check the size and weight. Workers at that location had been recently traumatized by an attempted theft or crazy person (it was a bit unclear) and didn't want us to run off with the box. At their suggestion, we headed to a different Officeworks nearby. The second location had the display Kindle we were seeking, and Rachel bought the last one in stock. The bizarre experience at the first location was a reminder that even a safe city like Melbourne has its urban crime.

We walked to the Botanical Gardens, passing Flinders Station, Federation Square and street musicians on the bridge. We stumbled across a pride festival called Midsumma; by coincidence it was the first day of a multi-week event. There were rainbow-decked booths from sporting teams and corporate sponsors, giant stages with live music, and lots of queer arts and crafts for sale. It was a little overwhelming, but the potential for people-watching was off the charts. There were drag queens, wheelchairs, dogs, ​rotary selfie platforms, an Auslan booth for the deaf community, and a fleet of food trucks. We stopped for lunch; I got a souvlaki wrap and a coffee. The charismatic coffee cashier was trying to upsell customers on snacks. The comedic quips were good, so I got a cookie too.

​The weather was cold and gray, and we weren’t really dressed for the occasion. We sought an indoor activity and headed for the National Gallery of Victoria across the street. Outside there were some interesting installations, including a bunch of potted plants that would play electric tones when you touched them. The most striking one was a set of a dozen LED screens with stylized digital birds that walked in place, like moving hieroglyphs, along the side of the road.

​For a more engaging activity, we played a round of mini golf at Holey Moley, part of the Crown casino complex. The course was had a small indoor footprint, and we were stuck behind a large group, but the holes themselves were quite innovative. One was a marble labyrinth that didn’t even require the club. The final hole was inside an enclosed wind tunnel full of fake dollar bills, swirling around the golfer.

​It was almost time for Rachel and Vince to leave for the airport. Of course, it was only fitting to end this chapter with a last taste of the Tennis – we found a screen by the river and watched for a bit. We returned to the lobby to get their bags out of storage, waited for the Uber to arrive, and then bid each other safe travels. ​

By far the wildest chapter of our Australia adventure, we spent an action-packed 2 days on the secluded Kangaroo Island. Located off the southern coast, “KI” is Australia’s third largest island. Living up to its name, there are approximately 65,000 wild kangaroos that well outnumber the 5,000 human residents. Unfortunately, a significant portion of the island burned during the 2019/2020 bushfires, mainly on the western side. The ecosystem had largely bounced back, but the human infrastructure was recovering slowly. This was a remote destination, but it was definitely worth the journey. I’m so glad Rachel worked it into the itinerary.

​From downtown Adelaide, we caught a 2-hour bus to the Cape Jervis ferry terminal. The bus was surprisingly bumpy, but there were nice views of the coast, and we spotted a few emus and a large kangaroo mob – the term for a group of these iconic marsupials. The ferry ride was also a rough journey. It's considered the most expensive ferry in the world in terms of price per kilometer, and it crossed a stretch of open ocean that caused the boat to careen on every axis – yaw, pitch, and roll. Optimistically, we started in some swivel chairs by the front window. As soon as the journey started, the heaving of the boat caught us off guard and sent the chairs spinning. We fled to the back of the boat where it was more stable, barely able to walk in a straight line as the floor moved under us. A miserable hour later, we made it to the port of Penneshaw on Kangaroo Island. As we were leaving, we overheard a crew member rate the turbulence as a 4 out of 10.

​We dragged our suitcases to the rental car agency, where an extremely friendly agent gave us lots of recommendations: the best beaches on the island, which ones had recent jellyfish and shark sightings, and which stretches of road had wildlife at night. Our car was a RAV4 hybrid that was quiet and comfortable. Similar to other phases of the trip, Vince was the driver and did an excellent job. During the daytime, KI had favorable driving conditions due to lack of traffic and straight roads. (Nighttime would be a different story.)

The first stop was the Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park, a zoo-sanctuary with all sorts of animals – mainly Australian but a few international guests. The park was surprisingly uncrowded. The rental car agent had mentioned it was the first slow day in 8 weeks, so we must have just missed the summer crowds.
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The koalas were one of the highlights. They had at least a dozen, spread across several different exhibits. We could see them at eye-level, resting in trees and munching on eucalyptus leaves. We even found a wild koala on the outskirts of the park, after a helpful tip from another guest.

​The wallaby and kangaroo exhibits had gates so you could enter and hand feed them, similar to the experience I had at the Bonorong Sanctuary in Tasmania. However, since the KI Sanctuary had few visitors, the animals were a lot hungrier! The wallabies jockeyed for access to our food, and at one point, three were simultaneously eating out of Vince’s hand. There was even an albino wallaby, and a few tiny joeys (one still in mom’s pouch) that added to the cuteness.

​Some of the other notable animals at the sanctuary: the happy-looking quokkas of internet fame, blue penguins in a swimming pool, a baby flying fox (fruit bat) wrapped up in its mom’s wings, an active Komodo dragon, a group of three giant pelicans, a vibrant blue-winged kookaburra, and a dingo enclosure with rusty trucks to climb on.

​It was only a 15-minute drive to the Stokes Bay, recently voted Australia’s best beach. We hiked through a narrow passageway of boulders to reach the beach itself. It had nice sand and clear blue water, with orange-dusted rocks in the distance. There were plenty of other visitors, but nothing compared to a Sydney beach. Val braved the water with a swim, while Rachel, Vince, and I walked along the shore. There were red jellyfish in the water, and we found a tiny little sea star on the sand.

​Though there were other well-regarded beaches on the north coast of the island, we decided to wrap up the day. We stopped for groceries in the main town of Kingscote, then drove to the smaller vacation town of American River. Our AirBNB was a yellow cottage called The Shanty, which was decorated with ceramic pelicans and nautical pictures. It was quite charming, though lacking Wifi. I made an absurd quantity of couscous and veggies for dinner.

​At sunset, Vince agreed to join me for a quick stroll around the town. We went to the jetty, where two little boys eagerly told us about the fish they had caught that day. A pair of dolphins swam quite close to the dock. Several enormous pelicans were perched on a lamppost, above a statue of an enormous pelican. A sleeping seal occupied the platform below us, with a posted sign indicating this was a regular hangout spot. We were treated to the most spectacular sunset I can remember, full of fiery reds that painted the clouds all the way across the harbor. When the seagulls stopped squawking, it was peaceful – quiet enough to hear the seal snoring below.

​The next morning, we embarked on an epic day trip around the southwestern part of the island. We first drove to Seal Bay, known for its large Australian sea lion colony. We felt the entrance fee was overpriced, but the seal lions themselves were good entertainment. From the wooden platform, we saw all kinds of antics. Most notably, a sea lion intruder was chased into the water. Both intruder and defender swam surprisingly fast. There were also a few sea lions sleeping near the platform, offering a closer view. The large males indeed had a lighter colored area around their neck, their lion's mane.

​Our next stop was Vivonne Bay, a former winner of the “best beach in Australia” competition. It was gray and cloudy, so we didn’t see it at its best. We walked along the shore, looking at the carved rock pools.

​From there, we headed to Flinders Chase National Park. The visitor center was a portable building, no doubt a temporary fix from the fire. While the ranger processed our ticket order, I noticed a sign asking people to report sightings of the green carpenter bee, which burrowed in trees and hadn’t been seen since the fire. After explaining the map, the ranger casually asked if we wanted to see koalas; there were a mother and joey in a tree near the parking lot, which we successfully found.

We drove to the lighthouse at the edge of the park for a coastal hike. We had the trail to ourselves. The brush was rather tall, and we startled a few wallabies along the way. The path ended in a ramp and staircase that descended the edge of the cliff. There were great views of a small island and lots of fur seals basking on the rocks. We even saw a few cute seal pups clambering over rocks their size! The trail was supposed to end at a viewing platform for the Admiral’s Arch, but it was under construction so we only glimpsed the arch. One of the construction workers, laden with tools, jokingly asked if we had anything else for him to carry back up the stairs. We returned to the lighthouse, completing this excellent mini hike.

​Also within the national park was an unusual rock formation called the Remarkable Rocks, improbably perched on a clifftop in a way that evoked Stonehenge. The rocks were formed in the earth, lifted above the surface, and eroded into shapes that were smooth and concave yet with prominent protrusions. A smattering of red algae and the ocean views below added to their mystique. It was the early evening, and the rocks were deserted, so we had an opportunity for all the silly photos we desired. On our way out, we saw a wild goanna (lizard) from the boardwalk.

​The final activity of the evening was a twilight safari at the Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary. We took the drive slow, as the kangaroos were becoming more active and started crossing the road near our car. Our efforts to manifest an echidna for Val were successful, as we spotted one by the side of the road.

We turned off the main road into the sanctuary and found even more kangaroos. We had PB&Js for dinner at a picnic table near the parking lot, wondering if we were in the right place. There were no buildings, and only one other couple had arrived. Thankfully our guide, Josh, pulled up in a van and introduced himself. He was from the UK, visiting on a working holiday, and had every intent on staying in Australia rather than going back home. Even though he only had 10 months of experience as a guide, he did a phenomenal job of bringing the animals’ personalities and quirks to life. The tour was just the seven of us – Josh, our four, and the couple from Tennessee, so it was very personal and interactive.

​The next stop was all about the koalas. Josh knew exactly where to look, as he monitored the koala movements a few times a day. Each koala typically moved to a different tree every day, climbing down to the ground at dawn or dusk. They were also known to have “home trees” that they returned to once a week. Given their incredible appetites, churning through 3,000 leaves a day, they can actually do a lot of damage to the local trees. The Kangaroo Island koalas were originally introduced to the island as a conservation project, but without predators, quickly reached damaging levels. There were ongoing efforts around sterilization for population control, though these efforts were probably less urgent after losing 80% of the koala population during the fires.

​We drove out to a lake, kangaroos bouncing alongside the van, their tails swinging downwards as a counterbalance as they pushed off the ground. Josh pointed out some kangaroos practice fighting in the distance. An actual fight would involve leaning back on their tails and kicking their opponent with the massive claws on their hind legs, injuring the opponent's abdomen but usually not fatally.

Along one of the drives, we learned about the yacca plants. These spiky shrubs were some of the first things to spring back just days after the fires. During their rejuvenation, they grow faster than bamboo. They also grow towering flowers that eventually tip over onto the ground. Historically, the yacca sap was used for gunpowder, as it’s naturally explosive.

​We continued the koala spotting tour, and Josh drew our attention to the grunting of the male koalas as they made their presence known to competitors and mates. The tour took an exciting turn when we spotted a koala that was walking on the ground between trees, making the grunting noise before our very eyes. When it noticed us, it found the nearest tree and started climbing. Josh explained that normally they seek out trees with abundant leaves, but if there is potential danger, they’ll pick the nearest tree regardless. In some cases, this has led koalas to climb the legs of nearby tourists! In our case, the nearest tree was dead and had no leaves at all. We watched in amazement as the koala used its sharp claws to scale the tree with ease. It stayed in the crook of tree for a while, and presumably for the night.

​The lighting was beautiful, with the pink sunset through the eucalyptus trees. It started to rain. We stopped at the visitor center so that Josh could tell us about the impact of the 2019/2020 fires. He showed us a charred signboard for the sanctuary, melted glass bottles, and a bird’s nest made of scrap metal fragments – from the aftermath of the fires when there were no branches available. The fire was started by lightning. Apparently, the iron-rich rocks scattered throughout the island can act as lightning rods. He showed a map of burn zone, footage of firefighters evacuating through the blaze, and told us harrowing stories about mass graves for animal carcasses and destruction of the sanctuary’s buildings. If the weather hadn’t become rainy, checking the spread of the flames, the damage could have been even worse.

​Before the tour finished, we made one more round through the now-pitch-black bush. Using a large flashlight with a red filter, he pointed out a few more koalas, and several groups of wallabies. Josh explained that the wallabies will slap their tails on the ground to warn each other of potential danger. He also mentioned that the wallabies and kangaroos co-exist surprisingly well. He was full of interesting and entertaining facts, a great feature of the tour.

​The tour ended around 9:30pm, and we started the drive back to American River. It was decisively night, and the animals were in charge. Only ~10 people lived on the west side of the island; we only encountered one or two cars. Many people had warned us to the drive slowly – from the rental car agent, to a final caution from Josh – and we set out at a reasonable 50 km/hr (30 mph). What was normally a 1.5 hour drive became a 3 hour drive. Plus we were on high alert for animals, so it was an intense 3 hours. On top of all this, the windshield was stubbornly foggy and we had to blast the front fans.

There were so many animals we lost count. A train of wallabies crossed in front, pausing directly in front of the car, seemingly unaware of the blazing headlights. We kept an eye out for wallabies on the shoulder, and called them out as we spotted them, in case they made more dumb moves.

​There were fewer kangaroos, but they were stubborn like the wallabies, and took their sweet time getting off the road.

​The possums seemed to have a sense of self-preservation. We could see their glowing orange eyes in the distance, but they scuttled into the shoulder as we drew nearer. We probably saw ~20 possums in total.

​And there was the koala. We saw it crossing and couldn’t believe our eyes. Just like the koala we had seen with Josh at the sanctuary, it bounded up the nearest tree once it was across the road. Considering they usually change trees at dawn or dusk, seeing one at night was all the more surprising.

We saw a second koala in the shoulder on a dirt road, and it seemed a little dazed – possibly from the headlights of the car that passed us not long before. It turned its head away and stayed put, so we continued on our way.

At last, we arrived back at The Shanty. Vincent deserves a major shout-out for driving us home safely without any wildlife collisions. We were all tired from a very active day, and it was a long-enough drive, even without the constant fear of a rogue wallaby charging into the road. Having four sets of eyes scanning the shoulder for marsupials certainly helped, but Vincent gets the majority of the credit.

The adventure wasn’t over yet. After a late 12:30am return, we had to get up and check out by 7:00am to drive back to Penneshaw, return the rental car, walk to the ferry terminal, and catch our 8:30am ferry. The return ferry was smooth sailing, which was a win. However, the ferry was late, and our bus connection was even later. The possibility of missing our flight out of Adelaide started to loom larger. Instead of taking the bus to the main terminal downtown, we got out a few stops early and took an Uber directly to the airport, saving some precious minutes. Of course, as luck would have it, this was the time that Jetstar decided to be strict about luggage weight. While the agent allowed a grace of 1kg per bag, we had to do some creative repacking. Rachel wore two hats going into security. In the end, we made our flight to Adelaide, with enough time to grab food in the airport.
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Kangaroo Island turned out to be the ultimate Australia adventure. It included a thrilling ocean journey, many “pinch me” wildlife sightings, stunning beaches and rock formations, and a nail-biting night drive. We will never see those kangaroo crossing signs the same way!

​As soon as we stepped out of the Adelaide airport, the dry heat of South Australia was a remarkable change from the humidity of Queensland. We weren’t in Cairn-sas anymore – it was a new realm of “Oz.” As the Uber drove us through downtown Adelaide, the vast parks and main cricket stadium caught our eye. We learned it was called the Adelaide Oval, and hosts big concerts too.

We only stayed two nights in Adelaide, but really made the most of our time. As soon as we arrived and dropped our bags, we pivoted and caught another Uber into town so we could witness the Central Market before it closed for the day. The market was indoors, with lots of gourmet goodies that could pair with the local wines. My brain was fried and stomach was empty, so I had a flat white and some quick pizza while the others started shopping. There was a frantic energy at closing, as shops closed and hurried shoppers (like us) tried to squeeze in last-minute purchases.

​We decided to walk the 45 minutes back to our place. We only made it a few blocks before the snacking began! The snacking target was a newly acquired loaf of bread and its accompanying truffle spread. In the process of opening the spread, a little oil from the top of the jar spilled onto Val’s hands and then the sidewalk! We had a good laugh. (The truffle spread itself was a bit polarizing, but I loved it.)

​Along the way, we stopped at a Mexican fast-food place for supplemental tacos, watching the pedestrian traffic from the second floor balcony. We were all a bit surprised that Adelaide had a proper downtown, as we pictured it being a lot smaller. We ventured down this same pedestrian street to a large, two-story Woolworth’s for groceries. 

​Our walk took us through a beautiful park. It was a pleasant scene, with wide fields and chirping cockatoos. On the river, we spotted special boats equipped with a BBQ in the middle – apparently they are an Adelaide specialty. In the middle of the park was a cricket pitch where a game was in progress. Vince had the idea of checking it out, so we found our way into the brick grandstand and watched. None of us knew the rules of cricket, and were pleasantly surprised when the lady sitting near us helped explain the context.

We were watching a club match between her son’s team, visiting from the beach suburb of Glenelg, and playing against the home team, who was affiliated with the University of Adelaide. This was the higher tier of players, while the lower tier was playing on a different field in the background. We were shocked at how long the cricket games last, often from 10:00am to 5:30pm. Not only did she cheer on her son’s team, but she also worked as an usher for the professional games at the Adelaide Oval. From the way she described the team members and her involvement with the matches, we realized she was essentially a “cricket mom” and completely dedicated to the game. It was a funny and wholesome experience – yet another example of the Aussie friendliness.
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Finally we had a chance to settle into the AirBNB. It was located on a side street in the charming North Adelaide suburb, accessed by a little gate. Across the street was a pleasant café with water misters, live music, and dogs. We had a pasta dinner with more of the bread and truffle spread.

​It was finally time for our wine tasting day in the Barossa Valley! We walked to the pickup point at a hotel downtown, avoiding a few unsavory characters around the periphery. Soon our shuttle arrived. The driver was a charismatic and funny lady named Bronnie, who explained the basics of the Barossa Valley on the hour-long drive. The tour was a clever design that allowed you to choose 3-4 wineries out of a dozen or so options, as long as you visited them in a certain order. We chatted with a solo traveler named Henry, who had just started an engineering job in Adelaide a week prior.

​We already knew which 3 wineries we were going to visit, thanks to Rachel’s proactive planning. We had initially been interested in wine tasting at another region called the McLaren Vale, but she found that tour temporarily wasn’t running due to a bike race event. Rachel had booked the Barossa van tickets, researched the winery options, and made tasting appointments well in advance. Thanks to her prep work, we got to relax and enjoy the day.

The first stop was Rusden, a smaller winery with a youthful defiance of the entrenched wine culture. The tasting menu had two sides, each with a dozen options. We asked if there was a pre-set tasting flight; the host said we could try as many as we liked before the van returned. The wines all had a quirky name, which made them easier to remember. The whites included “Chasing Daises” and “Poco Loco,” while the reds included “Driftsand,” “School Days,” and “Black Guts.”

​The host explained the wines succinctly, and was ready with the next pour promptly after we finished the last. We probably tried 7-8, and all were very good. Even the heavier reds had a smooth finish, potentially due to the open-air fermentation process. It was also great value, as they waved the tasting fees with the purchase of two reasonably-priced bottles. We all agreed it was one of the best wine tasting experiences we’d ever had.

​The second stop was Yalumba, one of the historical wineries, founded in the late 1800s using gold rush money. The property was gorgeous, with a colorful stone castle and vibrant lawns. We tried the “Best of Barossa” flight with four reds. The first was an excellent grenache, and the fan favorite. The second was a syrah, and the third was a shiraz, with the difference being the growing climate (cooler for the syrah). The last was an interesting blend that wasn’t for me.

​The tasting was only one part of the Yalumba booking – Rachel also arranged a picnic lunch! We were handed two large baskets, referred to as “hampers,” allowed to choose two bottles of wine, and then let loose on the property. We staked out a spot in front of the castle building, laid out the blankets, and opened the bottle of grenache. In the hampers, there were multiple boxes of goodies, including vegan charcuterie and plenty of classic cheese and meat for yours truly. We chowed down, under a little time pressure, but still enjoying the picnic atmosphere.

​The third stop was a modern and edgy winery called First Stop. It was in an industrial building with funny sculptures like an angel pouring wine, a life-size cow, and an aquarium tank under the main bar. Our host was a friendly fellow named Nigel who pulled up a chair and sat with us while explaining and pouring the wines. Like Rusden, it was a generous flight that included 6-7 pours, starting with sparkling wine. As we progressed to the reds, we tried their signature wine, a shiraz called Mother’s Milk. Nigel even treated us to a pour of a more expensive aged red. I wish I could remember everything that we tried. On the third tasting, it was hard to keep track! I think one of them was a grenache with a matador on the label. In any case, Nigel’s laid back conversation and the reasonable prices made it another hit.

The drive back was long and sunny, so naturally I dozed off for a bit. When I woke up, my stomach was hurting and continued to hurt for the next day. A small price to pay for an incredible day of tasting.
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Although the visit to Adelaide and Barossa was a short chapter in the trip, it was a refreshing change of pace. We got to put on the nicer clothes hiding at the bottom of the suitcase, and enjoy a beautiful sunny day in a world-renowned wine region. And now whenever we see Barossa wines in the store, we'll think of our splendid day together!

All of our flights within Australia were with Jetstar, which had fairly strict luggage weight requirements. At the Sydney airport, we checked the weight of our bags using a scale by the check-in area, and moved items between them. The goal was to get the larger ones below 20kg and the carry-ons below 7kg. Between the four of us, there were 3 checked bags and 8 carryon bags. We successfully got everything close enough to the limits.

One of perks of traveling with other seasoned travelers was going into an airport lounge together. The others all had access, and brought me as a guest. I enjoyed a few snacks including a sandwich and a pre-packaged lamington. The flight from Sydney to Cairns was about 3 hours, and there were some good views of Botany Bay during the takeoff. ​As we descended into Cairns, the tropical mountains and snaking rivers of the Atherton Tablelands appeared through the clouds.

We took an Uber to our AirBNB, an upstairs unit in a humble set of vacation rentals, about 20 minutes walking distance from the center of town. A small office on the ground floor served as the reception, and we rang the bell to summon the host couple from the back. The husband, a balding gentleman with a soft voice and a European-Australian accent, took us up to the room and used a map to explain the local geography. The apartment was large but dingy. The host pointed out a crack in the wall above the kitchen sink that had leaked during the recent Cyclone Jasper, and complained that it would be months until he could get a plumber to properly fix the roof drainage, due to the high demand.

​The next day was our big day on the Great Barrier Reef. We were up and out the door before 7:00am, and walked to the Reef Fleet Terminal to find the boat. The morning skies along the coastal walk were gorgeous, especially with the green mountains in the background. Our tour company was called Passions of Paradise, and they directed us to their catamaran amidst the flurry of morning cruises.

Before each departure, the crew took a detailed headcount to make sure no one was left behind. My understanding is there was a past incident where some tourists had died after being left behind in the reef. A newer crew member struggled to get a count that matched their more experienced colleague and had to repeat the exercise several times, to the skipper’s chagrin.
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We took a spot on the second story sun deck, which had a nice breeze as the boat picked up speed. The company offered snacks and coffee during the 2 hour journey to the reef. One of the friendly crew members, a Canadian named Kennedy who was on a working holiday, came over and answered our questions about the jellyfish in a way that was detailed and reassuring. Thankfully, the most dangerous jellies were not in the area we were visiting.

We reached the first snorkeling stop of the day. The scuba divers on board entered the water while we prepared our snorkeling gear. The tour provided stinger suits, to protect from the floating jellyfish. We were extremely pleased that the suits covered our necks, heads, and hands. The masks and fins were also good quality, and anti-fog solution was provided near the launch ramp. They even had waist buoys to make the swimming part easier for anyone who wanted one.

​I hadn’t been snorkeling in at least 10 years, and I was definitely nervous. But once I was in the water and could see the ocean below, it wasn’t too scary. It really helped to have fins, and a snorkel that worked well. A spotter on the back of the boat provided some additional comfort, as they were keeping an eye on the ocean conditions and anyone in distress. There were some guides in the water too, but we mostly explored as a group of four.

​The reef was astounding! There were so many tropical fish, including large schools of black and white striped fish just an arm’s reach away. The water visibility was excellent, and the variety of coral was difficult to process. We saw spiky coral, fan-shaped coral, brain coral, wavy coral, cauliflower coral, boulder coral, and so many other shapes. Many were close enough that we had to be careful not to bump them with our fins. In some of the deeper areas, Val dove below the surface to get a closer look.

(the underwater photos below are screenshots from my GoPro videos)

​As we circled the reef, we spotted more and more fish. The turquoise parrotfish nibbled at the edges of the coral, the elaborate-patterned triggerfish skirted the lower depths. We saw a sea turtle briefly, but it was moving away. Many of the fish, like the butterfly, racoon, and angel fish, were familiar from Hawaii. A huge Maori wrasse was a highlight.

​After the first session, we got back on board, shed the stinger suits, and had a buffet lunch. The food was surprisingly good, and included a few cold salads and warm curries and pasta. They even had a secret vegan option that was brought out specially for Rachel and Val.

​The second snorkeling stop, called the Three Sisters, was even more dazzling than the first. The coral was off-the charts beautiful. We saw clownfish hiding in an anemone, a grumpy looking pufferfish, a light-colored ray commuting along the sea floor, and another sea turtle. There were large schools of blue and silver striped fish and a cluster of yellow striped sweetlips.

​Done with snorkeling for the day, we kicked back on the sun deck with a refreshing beer in hand. It was the perfect temperature, and a great combination of the post-reef high and summer vacation.

On the return journey, one of the marine biologist guides gave a scientific presentation on the reef. He explained the coral lifecycle, what coral bleaching actually means (it’s the release of symbiotic algae, and doesn’t equate to coral death), and some of the ongoing efforts to replenish the reef using coral grafts. It was very informative and balanced, and also highlighted the company’s investment in other environmental programs like turtle rescue and rainforest conservation.
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The Great Barrier Reef totally lived up the hype. It was a feast for the eyes, to the point of being difficult to fully absorb its complex beauty. The quantity and variety of fish far exceeded what I remember in Hawaii many years before. And to think we only saw 2 of the ~30 different snorkeling spots that are accessible from Cairns, let alone the hundreds off the entire East Coast. The existential threat of the jellyfish didn’t stop us from enjoying the day, but I can see why people recommend visiting outside of stinger season. Having good weather and a fantastic tour company were the icing on the cake.

After the big day, we walked back to the AirBNB and had poke bowls for dinner, including some delicious mango and a special sauce that Val whipped up. Having a creative vegan chef in the group inject some new flavors into our diet was a morale boost to everyone!

The next day ended up being a rest day. Our original plan was a day trip to Daintree, an ancient rainforest and the other main draw near Cairns. Unfortunately, the key parts of Daintree were still closed due to cyclone damage, and we had to cancel. But it was nice to have a chance to recover. We had pancakes for breakfast, took care of some travel planning, and reviewed GoPro footage from the reef. A few tropical rainstorms hit, loud enough that we stuck our heads outside to convince ourselves it was actually rain making all the noise. The AC had been running non-stop since we arrived, and had finally reached a cold equilibrium.
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In the evening, I went on a short walk with Vince. Lots of critters were active at dusk, including the local fruit bats, referred to as “flying foxes.” We could see them flying around the town, and clambering through the treetops. There was also a loud frog, its throat puffing up comically with each croak.

On our third day in Cairns, we divided and conquered. Val and Rachel opted for another day on the reef, while Vince and I stayed in town and went to the aquarium and fruit market.

The Cairns Aquarium impressed the two of us, as it included a lot more than just the Barrier Reef. Our visit was timed perfectly, as we caught a series of four back-to-back guided talks.

The first was at the freshwater exhibit, showcasing the marine life in the river ecosystems of Daintree. The energetic presentation explained the animals’ amazing adaptations to river and ocean life. The mangrove jacks could regulate their bodies and survive in both freshwater and saltwater. The barramundi were born as males, and changed to females later in their lifecycle after reaching the ocean. The enormous stingrays kept their young in a pouch, only separating when the young ray was 60% of the adult’s body size. The fat-bellied catfish stayed upstream during the dry season, surviving the lower water levels and higher temperatures by breathing air through a lung.
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The second talk was about the Great Barrier Reef at a two-story tank. The guide pointed out some of the unique species like the bump-headed Maori wrasse, the large fish that we saw during our snorkel outing. The talk coincided with feeding time, including a special placemat for the stingrays, which can’t eat and swim at the same time.

​The third talk was about sharks and rays, at the largest exhibit. There were some familiar animals like reef sharks and cow-nosed rays, but there were also some really dazzling species. The enormous shovel-nosed rays had three shark-like fins. The even-larger honeycomb rays and leopard sharks had beautiful patterns. The presenter did an excellent job of explaining the sharks’ unique role as the “doctors” of the ecosystem – removing diseased and injured animals from the population. She described in detail the shark’s senses, like smelling copper from fish blood and electrical pulses from muscles, and how a surfer might be perceived as behaving like a distressed fish. Statistics about shark attacks were put into context with other freak incidents, like dying from a falling coconut, to help dispel the sharks’ deadly reputation. Feeding time including watching the sharks pull their food off a pike, like a giant kebab.

​A glass tunnel brought us to the fourth presentation, this one more general. The guide showed us how to spot a sleeping stingray – they take micronaps, going into cruise control for a few seconds. She also talked about the effects of plastic pollution and some of the aquarium’s wildlife rescue efforts.

​We backtracked to see a few of the exhibits that we breezed by in the morning. A section on the dangers of the reef included lionfish, moray eels, and to our surprise, an actual stonefish – the most deadly fish in the world, with venom that can kill a person in 3 minutes.

​There were also some amazing reptiles, including a juvenile croc, monitor lizards jumping between branches, agile snakes swimming through pools of water, long-necked turtles, and some enormous crabs and crayfish.

​From the aquarium, we walked to the Rusty’s Market for lunch. We snacked our way through, starting with some idly and curry from a Keralan food truck. The owner was teaching his son how to take orders, which was really cute, but the food was a little overpriced. We also had some red bean bao and an acaí bowl. 

I continued browsing through the shops of downtown Cairns on my own, while Vince headed back to the apartment. My GoPro SD card was out of memory, bursting at the seams with New Zealand and Australia footage. I stopped by a diving camera store, enjoying the unique aquatic camera equipment like snorkel masks with GoPro attachments and special underwater lens filters. I asked the owner how business was going after the cyclone, and he laughed it off saying the real measure of a severe storm was whether the leaves were blown off the trees. Apparently the leaves were still attached, and sales of GoPros were still going strong. I wasn’t sure if that meant Cairns was less impacted than other parts of Queensland, or if it was a touch of Aussie bravado.
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After adding a few postcards to my collection, I headed back to the apartment. Soon after, Rachel and Val also returned from their second day on the reef. I sipped on a local beer called Coral Sea while listening to their stories. Their morning was a bit stormier with less water clarity, but they managed to spot several “bigger” animals including a reef shark and a stingray. In the end, all four of us had a second adventure that complemented our initial snorkeling excursion.

​During our last dinner and breakfast, tried to polish off the leftovers, including a can of corn kernels (in "Caans" no less!) We also made progress on the tropical fruits from Rusty’s Market. We polished off the dragonfruit and papaya, tucked away a passionfruit for later, and hopped into our Uber to the airport. Check-in and security went smoothly, and soon we boarded our flight to Adelaide.

To close, here are some of Val's incredible photos from the second GBR day.

​After several weeks on the move, we finally got to stay in one place for 6 consecutive nights. We stayed in the popular beach destination of Bondi, one of the outer suburbs of Sydney. Our AirBNB was relatively new, meaning it had fewer reviews when Vincent booked it, but it ended up being a great choice. It had an antique charm, with a brick archway at the entrance of the kitchen and a backsplash with blue and white tiles. Layered on were some modern touches, including numerous houseplants, board games, and beach accessories, like a cooler, boogie boards, and a wall photo of the Bondi Icebergs swimming pool. As with any place, there were a few drawbacks, including street noise. The location was right on busy Bondi Road, which was convenient for catching buses but made the apartment feel more public. We also had to close the windows at night to avoid uninvited guests like moths, spiders, and cockroaches.

​The first day was a chill day. I walked to the Woolworth’s for groceries, spilling half a tub of blueberries in the self-checkout area in the process. I was craving Mexican food, so I made burritos for dinner. The store had some Bondi brand mango seltzer that felt extremely appropriate for the occasion.

The second and third days were choose-your-own-adventure days. Rachel got to catch up with her mentor, complete some errands, and sample a few acai bowls. Vince made tons of progress on his travel planning. And I enjoyed two nice days of exploring, one in Bondi and one in downtown Sydney.
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The walk I did in Bondi was a coastal trail from Bondi Beach to Coogee Beach, one of the signature Sydney hikes. It was an overcast day, so the beaches weren’t as vibrant, but it was better conditions for walking the 7-mile loop. The trail connected a whole series of beaches, largely similar in terrain but each with their own personality. The path was paved, with staircases and ramps that dipped down into each cove. Lots of people were out enjoying the day, including surfers, dog-walkers, volleyball players, and runners. The crowds (and people-watching potential) thinned out as trail got father from Bondi.

​Several beaches had swimming pools built into the rocks adjacent to the sand beach, the most famous being the Bondi Icebergs. The pools were a unique feature of the human landscape, and a reminder that swimming at Australian beaches is dangerous enough to merit a safer alternative. For the swimmers who braved the ocean water, it was required to swim between the red and yellow flags. It was a bit strange to see the swimmers concentrated in a narrow sliver of water on an otherwise spacious beach. On the other hand, the rebellious surfers were usually spread out well beyond the flags, chasing the best waves. The lifeguards used megaphones and attempted to corral everyone towards the flags, with modest success.

​On the way back, I took a shortcut through the neighborhood, and spotted some beautiful rainbow parrots. We had a light salad for dinner, perfect for the summer weather.

​I started my jam-packed Sydney outing with a walk to the nearest metro station, and caught a train to Martin Place. It was near the Sydney Hospital, a beautiful brick building with a fountain and a famous statue of a pig that was popular with the tourists.

​The giant spider sculpture at the entrance of the Art Gallery of New South Wales was already a familiar landmark, as the queue for New Year’s Eve had gone underneath it. This time I got to stop and enjoy the artwork, including an entire wing featuring Aboriginal artists. The gallery had a wonderful selection, including paintings with traditional abstract designs featuring rows of dots and waves, as well as other media like weavings, photographs, sculptures, and a neon sign. My favorite was an enormous canvas with an optical illusion of repeated waves that seemed alive and moving.

​Worth a brief stop was the Hyde Barracks, an old stone building where convicts lived in close quarters and worked in grueling labor gangs. The museum had an unusual multimedia approach, with a headset that provided information based on location proximity to the exhibits. A great concept, but it frequently cut off the narration when I wandered just a step too far.

​I meandered past the St. James church into the bustling CBD. An international breakdancing group had a large crowd on a main pedestrian street, right below the Sydney Tower. By chance, I found the Sydney Lego store, which had a special Australian display: a giant gum tree filled with cute animals like a koala, cockatoo, kookaburra, and bat. They also had a wall-sized Lego mosaic of the Opera House.

​On my way to the Darling Harbor, I cut through the Strand, an elegant Victorian shopping arcade with fine wares like watches and chocolates.

​When I rejoined this flow, I crossed to the other side of the Darling Harbor and headed to the Maritime Museum. It had some modest indoor exhibits, but the real draw was the fleet of ship replicas floating on the water. I got a closer look at the HMB Endeavor, Captain Cook’s ship, that I had been eyeing from my lunch spot. I learned that this was no ordinary replica – it was fully functional, and had sailed around the world several times!

The parade of hits just kept on coming. I strolled through some amazing pedestrian and family friendly areas, including public fountains with lots of kids splashing around, a beautiful convention center, and a Chinese Friendship garden with colorful koi. An old rail line had been converted into a pedestrian pathway, and it passed by a Frank Geary building nicknamed the crumpled paper bag.
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Half fruit market and half flea market, the Paddy’s Market was an indoor labyrinth of stalls that were packed from floor to ceiling with quality produce and tacky souvenirs. It was a bombardment of beach towels, t-shirts, and distinctly Australian goods like leather fedoras and crocodile claw backscratchers. 

After this amazing day, I finally headed back to the metro station. Overall, the ambience in Sydney was relaxed with accessible and interesting things to do. All three museums that I visited were free of charge, and there was lots of public park space for everyone to enjoy. It was just so fun walking around, with an unexpected delight around each corner.
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While I was out exploring Sydney, Rachel and Vince were greeting Val at the airport with a hilarious handmade sign, “WELCOME TO AUS VAL,” decorated with stickers of Australian animals. We all rendezvoused at the place in Bondi, excited to start the long-awaited siblings trip. We started with a short walk down to Bondi, to the classic view overlooking the beach and the Icebergs pool. Later, we had a curry dinner and caught up with Val at the place.

​The next day, the four of us strolled through the Bondi area again, starting with a Saturday farmer’s market. There was a cute dog parking area, and we sampled some excellent gazpacho and harissa. We hiked a portion of the coastal trail to Bronte Beach, where an attempt to get in the water was thwarted by the conditions. The lifeguards said that four people had been stung by jellyfish in the last 30 minutes. We returned to the main part of Bondi for acai bowls and relaxing on the sand. For dinner, we made chickpeas, couscous, and a Greek salad.

For breakfast, Val treated us to chickpea flour omelets, a hearty and healthy meal that was an instant fan favorite. The Chickpea King (Vince) was over the moon.

​Now that we had initiated Val into vacation mode with our Bondi day, we headed to downtown Sydney for a day of classic sightseeing. We started at the Rocks Market, full of beautiful crafts. We particularly liked the prints from a photographer named Matt Pearson, and visited his gallery down the street. Of course, there were lots of food options, and we ate underneath the Harbor Bridge with a view of a prosecco cart and the Opera House. I had some Asian inspired pastries from a bakery called Tenacious, including a kimchi roll and a ham croissant. It was super windy, and the flakes of the croissant ended up everywhere, including in my iced latte and on Rachel. The rest of the crew had some tasty dumplings and vegan gelato.

​From underneath the bridge, we backtracked through the Rocks neighborhood and eventually made it on top of the bridge. At the corners of the bridge are four towers called pylons, which are mainly decorative in purpose. One had a viewing platform that you can climb for a small admission, and it was totally worth it. The harbor was alive with whizzing ferries, showy jetboats, pointy sailboats, and a stray historical replica. On their way into the Circular Quay, the boats disappeared behind an imposing Carnival cruise ship, which set sail later in the afternoon. Tour groups laden with safety gear climbed the catwalks on the bridge, while a steady stream of cars, buses, and trains passed below. It was a beautiful view on a beautiful day.

​We had tickets to a 5:00pm performance at the Sydney Opera House, a short but satisfying sampler of famous arias from classic operas. It was in the Joan Sutherland theater, a modern and comfortable venue with four tiers of opera boxes. The hilarious piano accompanist acted as the MC and framed each aria with a perfect dose of comedy and context. We recognized a few tunes from Carmen. The show ended on a high note with a cheerful song from La Traviata, including some audience participation. As good as the performance was, the highlight for me was walking around the inside of the building. The stylish lobbies had amazing natural light from the tall windows, with radiating arches that formed the shape of the iconic sails. The front lobby even had a view of the Sydney skyline.

After the show, we took the bus back to Bondi and could see dozens of bats flying above. We got back on the later side, but we had a nice pesto pasta dinner.

To explore outside of the city center, we took a day trip to the Manly Beach area on the north side of the Sydney harbor. After crossing the bridge by bus, we started a hike that followed the coastline from the Spit into the town of Manly. The trail traversed jungles, beaches, and bluffs with good views of the water. 

​We made it to Manly and stopped at an info site for details on the return ferries. It turned out they actually ran very regularly. The lady went above and beyond, giving us ideas on things to do in the area while effortlessly dishing out jokes and taking a jab at San Francisco.

​We wandered for a bit, peeking at restaurants, and settled on a spot where we could get a poke bowl for my lunch and acai bowls for everyone else. The rain subsided a bit, so we ventured onto Manly Beach. Unfortunately, it was closed to swimmers and not very inviting on a stormy day. A downpour started and we scurried to the safety of the covered shopping area.

​The convenient ferry didn’t require a ticket, just a tap of the credit card. It took us back to the Circular Quay where we caught the 333 bus back to Bondi Beach. Val adapted her chickpea omelets into an evening meal, which was a nice way to use up ingredients before checking out the next morning. The first leg of the siblings trip was ending, but more "Great" places were in store!

One of the anchors of our Australia trip was being in Sydney for New Year’s Eve. As you can imagine, hotel prices were quite high. Vince’s clever strategy was spending 2 nights at an airport hotel away from the city center, then going to the Blue Mountains for the first 2 nights of the new year. Thanks to Sydney’s excellent public transportation, it was both feasible and easy to get between these places, enabling us to keep the costs down while enjoying the fireworks.

The flight from Hobart to Sydney was a short 1.5 hours, and the Uber ride to the hotel was a short 10 minutes. Still, we were tired from our long day at the MONA. We requested a blanket from the hotel to use as a picnic blanket, and then went to bed.
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Our plan for viewing fireworks was to line up early and get into the Botanical Gardens, which were facing the Opera House and harbor. This was the first year that the city of Sydney was making several prime viewing areas free to the public, so there was no precedent on how early was sufficient to get in. The queue was available from 7:00am and the gates closed at 11:00am, which gave us a rough timeframe. We had breakfast at the hotel, picked up groceries for lunch, took the metro into the city center, and were in line by 8:30am.

​The event logistics were impressively organized. For the morning queue, a large grass field was spray painted with orderly rows, including space for people to get in and out. The bags were inspected by security, and guards were present throughout the gardens. There were ample bathrooms and a whole row of food vendors. The area was capped at 10,500 people, so once we staked our picnic spot, we didn’t have to worry about latecomers trying to squeeze in.

​The 15.5 hour wait was grueling. It was comfortable enough on the blanket, but there was still lots of foot traffic and portable speakers with clashing music. Thankfully the temperature was cool and the sky was overcast, so we didn’t have to worry about roasting. We napped, played cards, read, and took turns stretching our legs to walk around the grounds. Ibises roamed throughout the park, pecking the grass with their long beaks, and a possum was napping in the nook of a tree. Rachel got us some spiffy glowstick accessories, including a hat and glasses.

​There was a disappointing amount of tree cover that obscured the view of the harbor, and later, the fireworks. The opera house was only visible from a few specific vantage points, which were teeming. When the first round of fireworks went off at 9:00pm for the Welcome to Australia ceremony, we couldn’t really see them from the blanket. However, we could see lots of enormous bats flying between the trees, especially when the fireworks startled them out of their roosts.

​As it got closer to midnight, we stood in one of the crowded areas with the better view. Some obnoxious French people were standing on benches, chanting, and a fight almost broke out amongst them. Finally, the fireworks began. There were multiple launch sites all around the harbor, and the show was expertly synchronized. The bridge was a central character, featuring lights of its own, plus fireworks launched off the top and sides. The Opera House and fleet of boats on the water were cast with dazzling lights – pink, blue, white, and gold.

It took about 1.5 hours to get back to the hotel. The metro was understandably packed, and we barely got onto the second one. One of the neat things about the Sydney metro was that you could tag on and tag off with a normal credit card – no special city card needed. We skirted around the edge of a dark park, with more bats in the trees. All things considered, it was a smooth getaway.

The hotel had a large breakfast buffet, a treat after so many oatmeal and toast mornings. We navigated our bags to the nearest metro station and rode into Sydney’s central station. I ordered an iced latte, which was lost in the flurry of orders, and had to ask for it again. We boarded the train to the Blue Mountains, which had 2-story cars but no luggage storage areas. After painfully squeezing through several narrow staircases and aisles, we gave up and put our large suitcases on seats.

​The next day, the others stayed at the AirBNB and rested while I went for a hiking expedition. I caught a bus from downtown to the Three Sisters Lookout. The bus was absolutely packed. I was lucky to get onboard, and also lucky to squeeze my way to the door at my stop.

​When I arrived, the view was completely obscured with a blanket of fog. I went into the visitor center to get the trail status of a hike that I had in mind. The ranger gave me detailed instructions for several related hikes, marking the detours and approximate times in an intense briefing. I stuck to my guns and did the loop that I originally had in mind: the Dardanelles Pass Loop trail.

​The trail started out with a wide and paved walkway down to a lookout point by the Three Sisters, an iconic set of three rock towers. The trail quickly morphed into a set of twisting, steep, and uneven steps called the Giant Staircase. The path descended the cliff face right next to the first “sister.” It was often only wide enough for one person at a time, despite being a two-way path. Several groups looked at the trail and decided to turn around – justifiably so. It was humid, and I was sweating even on the downhill. I took it slow, which also gave time to enjoy the views. The vastness of the sandstone plateaus and basins, slowly becoming visible as the fog dissipated, was breathtaking.

​The Giant Staircase had taken me down into the basin, where the cliffs merged with the fern-filled forest. The forest echoed with the caws of cockatoos, the trickle of waterfalls, and loudly spoken Portuguese from the group ahead of me. After getting ahead of them, I enjoyed the tranquility of this lush green environment, stopping occasionally to pick up on the subtle movements of the fantails and parrots camouflaged in the treetops.

​The ascent was more forgiving than the Giant Staircase, with fewer people and more metal steps. Having regained all of the elevation, the views were excellent. I had an entire viewing platform to myself, a front row seat to the blue haze that gives the Blue Mountains their name. It’s believed that the blue haze is caused by eucalyptus oils in the air that scatter the light.

​The next phase of the hike followed the Prince Henry Cliff Walk along the edge of the plateau. There were regularly spaced lookouts, some better than others, but a nice excuse to stop and admire the scenery. 

​I arrived back at the visitor center, and the Three Sisters were now visible from the viewing platform. They were majestic, and better appreciated from this higher angle, compared to the low angle from the Giant Staircase.

Rachel and Vince made dinner, including sweet potatoes, broccoli, and tempeh. I finished the wombat wine and had a nice evening of journaling.
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Checkout the next morning was smooth. We waited at the train station on a bench in the hot sun. The person sleeping on the bench behind us woke up, tried to strike up a conversation by mumbling something about enjoying the journey in life, then wandered off. The train was emptier today, and the skies clearer as we headed back to Sydney.

​Another blog post that’s going to cover a lot of ground – since we ourselves covered a lot of ground in just a week! Welcome to our Tasmanian road trip adventure. Before we begin, a quick visual on the route.

The flights that Vincent and Rachel had booked were an arrival into Launceston and a departure out of Hobart. Normally we’d just book a one-way rental car, but since I was already in Hobart, we had the option of a round trip. By adding an extra leg (from Hobart to Launceston) this meant I could pick them up at the airport when they arrived on Christmas Eve, when things might be closed. At least, that was the idea.

The rental car was a white Kia Rio. I was happy to be in a compact car again, since I’m accustomed to the dimensions, but the accelerator was quite lacking. After picking it up in Hobart, I started the drive to Launceston and made two stops along the way.

The first stop was at the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, about 30 minutes from Hobart. During check-in, I was handed a bag of kangaroo food, given some basic instructions on feeding them, then let loose in the sanctuary. I timed my visit with one of the guided tours, which turned out to be really insightful.

The guide started by introducing us to a 109-year-old sulfur-crested cockatoo named Fred, one of the oldest birds in the world. Though Fred was quiet in front of the crowd, he apparently has an Australian accent from his original owner, who left Fred to the sanctuary in his will. The way that Fred fanned the yellow feathers on the top of his head was entertaining – quite spry for an old gentleman. Beside the enclosure was a letter from the queen, congratulating Fred on his 100th birthday. The guide, whose hair was now dyed black, said that Fred had a bias against blondes. ​

​The tour also included a stop at the animal hospital, where the sanctuary employs a staff of specialized veterinarians to assess and treat the injured animals as they come in. Tasmania is unfortunately considered the roadkill capital of the world, and when ordinary civilians find animals in distress, Bonorong is one of the places who will respond to the call. The hospital had a one-way glass wall showing the operating table and instruments. Though the room was empty at the time, there was a screen with a list of the day’s patients including an echidna, several birds, and several reptiles.

Next up was a wombat that nibbled on the guide’s belt while she told us about the species. Wombats have a thick bone on their backside that works as a defense mechanism. When a predator chases the wombat into its hole, it uses its backside to crush the predator against the roof of the tunnel. Wombats also have square poo, allowing them to be placed by the entrances to their tunnels as markers. One more fun fact was that wombats go through a major personality change at about 2 years of age, and will reject their human caretakers like rebellious teenagers. This means that wombats can be successfully released into the wild even after being accustomed to humans in their early years.

​The final portion of the guided tour was the Tasmanian Devils, an animal named by early explorers for their reflective eyes and translucent red ears when seen at night. The devils are misunderstood, but still raise a few eyebrows. They have amazing jaw strength for their size and can eat 30% of their body weight in 30 minutes. ​They’re mainly scavengers, rather than hunters, and end up in dangerous situations when scavenging alongside the road. The population was almost wiped out by a disease that caused facial tumors, with a 100% mortality rate due to starvation. Despite these existential threats, the animals themselves were so cute! Some were sprawled out on their bellies in the sun, others were awkwardly galloping around. But they are apparently vicious when mating season comes around. The male will guard the entrance to the den where the female is resting, and have brutal fights with competitors, leading to many battle scars. Inside the den, the newborn devils fight for one of the four nursing spots. Not an easy life.

​The sanctuary had lots of other animals too. Blue-tongued lizards, tawny frogmouth owls, parrots, kookaburras, echidnas, and emus. It was the kangaroos that stole the show. There were a hundred or so, scattered around an open space in the center of the sanctuary. Since everyone had a bag of food, they were very well fed. Several that I approached didn’t seem to be hungry at all. However, there were still a few takers! It was fun to feel their tongues scoop up the mix of grains from my palm. I had never seen one up close before, and they were amazing. The fluffy ears, the sleek claws, the goofy way they crawl on all fours, or flop down on the ground. Since it was allowed, I even gave one a neck rub. (They don’t like touching on their backs or tails, an instruction which several other guests had clearly missed.) My favorite moment was an Indian parent telling their small child not to turn their back on a large kangaroo, as if it was some kind of dangerous animal. Quite the opposite! The ones at the sanctuary were super mellow around people.

​On the way out of the kangaroo area, I went back to the hospital to watch the video reel with “patient stories.” I loved seeing the footage of a Tasmanian devil treated with a tiny little leg cast, making a full recovery. The videos went into surprising detail – explaining the catheters for intubating large birds, how to customize anesthesia masks for animals with different face shapes, and how to take x-rays of an echidna. Maybe they need a medical device engineer? Fun fact, echidnas are so good at getting out of boxes that they’re transported in containers with at least four latches. 

Bonorong was absolutely worth the visit. I got a coffee from their small café, which was entirely plant-based, and continued the drive. I stopped for lunch in the historic town of Ross, checking out the old stone bridge and trying their famous scallop pies. I was pleasantly surprised to find a yellow curry sauce was the base for the filling.
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The road to Launceston was easy to navigate with ample passing lanes and a solid fence in the median. The car’s accelerator struggled up the hill into the Riverside neighborhood, which was a rural suburb of Launceston. I checked into the AirBNB, a beautiful home with a large garden, and relaxed for a bit. Catching me totally by surprise was a wild echidna, perfectly visible through the living room window, browsing through the soil just 10 or 15 feet away from the house. While I watched in awe, a wallaby went zooming by in broad daylight. I was very excited to be spending 3 nights there.

​I picked up some groceries at the local Woolworth’s, made a pasta dinner, and had a lamington from the bakery in Ross for a Christmas Eve dessert. Coordinating with Vince and Rachel, I learned they made it from Uluru to Melbourne, but were stranded there due to several weather-related flight delays. Rather than picking them up at the airport as planned, they took an Uber when they arrived in the middle of the night. Before bed, I went outside at dusk and watched the wallabies in the yard. It was a little eerie being at this rural house by myself at night. A creepy spider right by the front door, the gong-like croaks of the frogs, and the maniacal laughter of the kookaburras really did not help. I went back inside.

​The first day of our reunion was a rest day that coincided with Christmas. We had the chance to talk to loved ones back home, catch up on sleep, laundry, journaling, and trip planning. The wildlife was a delightful distraction. We saw another echidna, several wallabies including one with a joey in the pouch, and two pademelons (like a wallaby, but smaller). Many sightings were just outside the window! It was a nature lover’s treat. We watched the wallabies use their T-rex arms to pull down tree branches, and shake their floppy ears. Later on, we saw the joey hopping around independently, having emerged from the pouch – a Christmas joey!

​We went for a nice walk in the neighborhood, saying hello to some friendly pet donkeys in an enclosure. Vincent attempted to speak their language with a convincing bray. In response, the horse next door let out a perfectly timed neigh that sounded exactly like a laugh. After a good laugh ourselves, we joked that if anyone was bitten by the donkey, we’d have to take them to the “Eee-Rrr.” On the walk, there were also nice views of the river, some magpies and cockatoos, and a few Christmas kangaroo lawn ornaments.

​For our Christmas meal, we had roasted pinkeye potatoes and cauliflower from the Hobart farmer’s market, plus carrots glazed with Bruny Island honey. We tried a low alcohol wine, a rose with <0.5% ABV. The special dessert of plant-based chocolate cake was decisively finished off.

​Our Boxing Day activity was an ambitious day trip to Cradle Mountain. We stopped by the rental car agency in Launceston to get Vincent added as a driver, and he really carried the day. It was 2 hours to the entrance of Cradle Mountain on challenging rural roads. The curves weren’t well marked with a suggested speed, and other drivers routinely strayed across the median as they went around. At least the scenery was great, with interesting forests and mountain views.

​At Cradle Mountain, we took a shuttle from the visitor center to Dove Lake. It was a popular park, but they encouraged people to hike the Dove Lake circuit counterclockwise which helped reduce congestion. The views of the lake were lovely, with reddish orange water along the shore and dark blue water in the distance. The pointy peaks of Cradle Mountain towered above, perfectly visible on this sunny day. We followed the well-maintained boardwalks around the perimeter of the lake.

​In pursuit of wombats, we took a connector trail from Dove Lake towards Ronny Creek and kept our eyes peeled. We weren’t entirely sure what we were looking for, but all three of us were intent on finding a wild wombat. Though the plants weren’t our focus, the setting itself was unique and worth the trek regardless of wildlife potential. As it turned out, the wombats were at the end of the trail in an open grassy area, with a crowd of tourists giving away their location. The first one we saw was grazing right below the boardwalk, chowing down just feet from the paparazzi, seemingly unfazed. It was like a giant gray teddy bear – much larger than the one I saw at Bonorong. We were totally thrilled with the one sighting, but ended up seeing several more, including a mother and little wombat in the distance.

We crammed ourselves on the park shuttle and returned to the visitor center. I mistakenly got off at the wrong stop, but managed to get back on before the bus left.
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Right next to the National Park was a wildlife sanctuary called Devils @ Cradle that Rachel and Vince were interested in checking out. They had a much larger cohort of devils than Bonorong, including some adults that were hissing and fighting and some juveniles that were bouncing around. For me, the highlight was their quolls, another type of carnivorous marsupial. Described as “baby faced assassins,” these tiny critters are hunters that can take down larger animals. The sanctuary had spotted-tail quolls, including a mean-looking male that was perched right next to the glass, and a difficult female that eluded the keepers until they gave up. They also had eastern quolls, which looked so innocent with their large, startled eyes.

After another difficult drive, we made it back to Launceston and had a curry dinner. I was very pleased with the powerful induction stove, which made the stir-frying quick and easy. They even had a wok and a rice cooker, some of the nicest kitchen amenities of the trip.
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We said goodbye to our wallaby and pademelon friends, kept an eye on a large tarantula-looking spider by the door, and left our Launceston AirBNB. But before leaving "Lonnie," we checked out the Cataract Gorge, a steep canyon just minutes away from the town center. We did a short hike around a lake, crossing a suspension bridge and soaking in the scene. There was a large grassy field with a manmade swimming pool, a bright blue against the dark blue of the lake. Overhead, colorful carts drifted by on a scenic chairlift. Peacocks wandered around the edges of the café, where I got my first iced latte of summer. A funky little funicular brought us back up to the parking lot.

​Driving east towards the coast, we made a detour to see the Bridestowe Lavender estate. We arrived during the peak, and the line of cars was moving slowly, so we had our lunch in the car. But it was worth the wait! Even rows of lavender as far as the eye could see, with plenty of room for everyone to get their photos. People were nicely dressed and having a good time. The fields were buzzing with bees and chirping with cicadas. The farm had around 650,000 lavender plants, and if they were placed in one row, it would reach all the way to Hobart. After a good frolick, we got some lavender ice cream too.

I tagged in to drive for the leg from the lavender farm to St. Helens. It was another rural drive, and a little rainy, but not too many cars on the road. Along the road I spotted some yellow-tailed black cockatoos and a kookaburra.

Our hotel in St. Helens was a private room with a shared kitchen and bathroom. We picked up ingredients for a chili dinner and sweet potatoes. One of the sweet potatoes was the shape of a boomerang, so we had to test out its aerodynamics. Two bubbly Indian ladies complimented our food while they microwaved theirs. It was a rainy night, perfect for relaxing.

​The storm cleared and we drove to Binalong Beach, the southernmost beach on the Bay of Fires. The white sand, turquoise water, and crashing waves were a pleasant surprise after the rain. Families played in the sand, and surfers found modest success on the waves. We walked to the far end of the beach, trudging across the compressible and coarse sand. I shed my hiking boots when a rogue wave drenched my ankles.

​On the far end was an outcrop of boulders, covered with bright red moss – a signature of the Bay of Fires. While posing for photos, poor Rachel was soaked by the spray from a crashing wave. I put my boots back on and hopped across a few more boulders, admiring the contrast of the bright red moss against the ocean blue.

We drove a little further to Cosy Corner, a smaller beach with an inviting name. In reality, we found a grizzly campervan park, gray skies, and churning waves. We ate our lunch while looking at a seagull that was missing a foot. As the next storm arrived, we started driving south towards Bicheno.
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It was only an hour to Bicheno, and it was nice to have a shorter leg. Our accommodation was an actual hotel called with Beachfront Bicheno. After so many AirBNBs, it was strange to visit a front desk with a real human being. Vince and I went for a short hike up to Whaler’s Point, with great views of Governor Island and overlooking the town. Though our room didn’t have a microwave, Vince and Rachel got help from the hotel staff and came back with heated chili, broccoli, and sweet potatoes for dinner. I had a local beer from Bicheno Brewing, with a cute penguin logo (Bicheno has a penguin colony, like the one we saw in Dunedin). A spectacular sunset rainbow stretched all the way across the sky.

​From Bicheno we drove to Freycinet National Park, a peninsula jutting off the east coast. The parking lot was overloaded but we found a spot alongside the road, and started the hike to the Wineglass Bay Overlook. It was steep, and we were carrying our heavy valuables, but it wasn’t too long distance-wise. The viewing platform had several tiers, all of which had amazing views looking down into Wineglass Bay. The perfect curve of the white beach was sparkling in the afternoon sun. Boats were speckled in the harbor, and sandstone cliffs extended off into the distance. We could even glimpse the turquoise shallows of Hazard Bay on the other side of the peninsula. For lunch, I ate a curry scallop pie from a bakery in Bicheno. A wild wallaby loitered near the platform, seemingly dazed by all the people. Someone offered it food; Rachel spoke up and told them not to.

​We completed the rest of the east coast drive, stopping to stretch our legs on Orford Beach. A large jellyfish the size of a deflated basketball rolled in the waves. Our destination that afternoon was not Hobart, as originally planned, but New Norfolk. The AirBNB in Hobart had cancelled on us with 1 day notice due to a family emergency. We scrambled to find a replacement, and options were pretty grim with the holidays and yacht race in full swing, but we snagged a room in a classic BNB in this less touristy area.

We followed the river Derwent upstream to New Norfolk and checked into the quaint Old Colony Inn. It had a garden, steep wooden steps, an anvil-esque doorjamb, and vaguely Elizabethan artwork. One painting had a noble lady holding what appeared to be a Tasmanian devil. We walked across town to a kebab place for dinner. New Norfolk was a little rough around the edges. Shabby buildings, a large campervan park by the water, and a Woolworth’s with lots of empty shelves. The Wifi was weak-to-nonexistent, which put a damper on the evening.

​The next morning was full of complicated logistics. Our goal was to arrive at the MONA at 10:00am, while also returning our rental car and borrowing a car from Elsje and Daryl. The owner of the Old Colony Inn, a lady named Penelope, offered a wonderful breakfast including vegan toast with chili and avocado. It was both unexpectedly filling and time-consuming. Penelope was full of ideas on vegetarian and vegan cooking, so it was hard not to be drawn in, especially since Vince coincidentally had a goal of eating more beans-on-toast for breakfast.

Heading back down south along the river Derwent, we first stopped for gas and then drove up the hill to Elsje and Daryl’s place. Everyone exchanged quick introductions, and we dropped off our bags for the day. The three of us took the rental car to the dropoff location. Daryl picked us up in the Kona, drove back to his house, and then left the Kona with us for the day. It was super generous for them to suggest this arrangement, as it gave us more time at the MONA and meant we didn’t have to worry about our bags or returning the car on time.
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The Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) is the pet project of David Walsh, who made his fortune counting cards at casinos. It's a 3-story labyrinth carved into the sandstone foundation, with stripes of Triassic rock visible in many hallways. The branding of the museum was both irreverent and self-aware. The bar advertised "cocktails, pizza, emptiness."  Fenced off construction areas were printed with “David is building yet another thing.” None of the art was physically labelled, but information was accessible via the museum’s app. The app even allowed you to join a virtual queue for limited capacity installations and would send you a notification when it was almost your turn. While the app worked quite well, the lack of signage in the museum made it a bit confusing to navigate the maze – perhaps that was the intent.

​The first gallery was dark and elegant, with velvet curtains and tall-backed armchairs. It housed an eclectic international set of provocative works, including a set of chocolates made from casts of open wounds, a bear-rug style pelt made from a kitten, and a hanging marble statue that evoked a dead horse. The second gallery had stylistically simple sculptures from a particular artist, including a section of bone that appeared to be supporting the ceiling and some CNC machined boulders. The third gallery was a collection of Orthodox Christian artwork from around the world, that offered an amazing comparative art experience. They had Greek and Russian art that reminded me of Meteora, but also Ethiopian and Syrian art including healing scrolls.

High on my list was an art installation from the Icelandic musician Jónsi, meant to evoke the recent volcanic eruptions. We were led into a dark, circular room that was ringed with giant speakers. The music was typical Jónsi – slow, layered, and shifting subtly over time. Mouthed pops and hisses evoked the bubbling lava, while the rumbles of the deep bass conveyed the power coming from the earth. I enjoyed it but it was definitely out there – I was hoping for a visual element. We had lunch on the lawn, which had several performance stages including a guitarist who was yodeling a song as people passed by.
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The labyrinth had even more surprises in store. A guitar and bass clarinet duo played jazz in front of an enormous mural. Rachel went ahead into a green curtained area that was for women only. A series of bioreactors digested food and produced artificial poop. A red sports car with a bloated body was barely recognizable as a Porsche under its marshmallow folds. Out of all these quirky works, the fan favorite was a waterfall that spelled words from Google News headlines out of water droplets, a metaphor for this deluge of information.

After a busy morning and so many galleries, the museum fatigue hit me hard. We returned to Daryl’s and had a few minutes to chat. We even squeezed in some more family history!
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Elsje called her relative Karyn, who worked as a receptionist for Dr. Eva Zvatora (my Czech relative). Karyn told us what she could remember about the Zvatoras. She said Eva was very nice, spoke good English, wasn’t a socialite, and worked as a dentist at an office that served multiple schools in the area. Eva’s husband Tony was a doctor, one of the few in the area, and so was a fixture of the community. His job sounded stressful, always being on call. One of their fellow Czech immigrants started a successful winery (based on a follow-up internet search, I believe it was Josef Chromy). They had two children, Danny and Mark. Sadly, Mark committed suicide in high school after a relationship fell apart. It was devastating to the family; Tony later committed suicide himself. Elsje speculated that the immigrant post-war experience, including not being able to share your struggles with your new community, and the secondary trauma passed down to the next generation, may have played a role. I believed her; she was raised by a Dutch family who had their own WWII traumas before moving to Tasmania.

We bid Daryl and the pets farewell. Elsje was kind enough to drive us to the Hobart airport. We ate our dinner of premade falafel and hummus before security, to help reduce the weight of our carry-on bags. Thankfully, Jetstar did not subject us to any spot checks for bag weight. The gift shop in the airport had products from the lavender farm we visited and of course, lots of souvenirs with Tassie devils.

It was a whirlwind 7-day tour of Tasmania, and it was hard to believe it was over. While the quantity of driving was high (well over 1000km), we saw a lot of amazing parks, beaches, animals, and art. Having four different overnight stays, including a curveball AirBNB cancellation, was tough but we prevailed. The time with Daryl and Elsje, and their help with uncovering family history, made Tasmania even more meaningful on a personal level.