Adrenaline Rush

​After the wedding, Vince and Rachel organized a trio of tours to showcase the best of Moorea. We had already gotten our bearings on the Francky Frank 4WD truck tour, which gave us a geological, botanical, and cultural introduction to the island. Now it was time for the adrenaline-pumping adventure sports. I’m talking driving ATVs on dirt mountain roads, cruising the lagoon on jetskis, swimming face-to-face with sharks and stingrays… bring it on!

​All of our tours began at the Moorea Activities Center, a short drive from the villas. The first activity was ATV-ing, which I had never tried before. We donned hairnets and helmets, paired up two people to one vehicle, were given a brief explanation of the controls, and jumped right into the drive. The controls were a little challenging, mainly because the accelerator was a thumb-controlled switch on the handlebar. The guide warned us that thumb fatigue could be a limiting factor. There was no power steering, so it was an upper body workout trying to turn the handlebars. But the real kicker was the interaction between the steering and accelerator. Trying to hold constant hand pressure on the accelerator while torquing the steering system required skillful muscle group isolation. Which I did not develop in the 2.5-hour session. Due to the muscle groupings, it felt like the steering response was different for left vs. right turns.

​The journey started on normal paved roads, where normal sized cars suddenly looked a lot more intimidating. Soon, we turned onto a network of dirt mountain roads and stream crossings, where concentration was required. Since I was an ATV novice and had Mom on board, I wasn’t planning on breaking any speed records. Even at a measured pace, controlling the ATV wasn’t a walk in the park. At one point, the guide went up a slope onto a parallel trail, and I tried to follow suit. The bump steer pulled the accelerator out of my grip, and the ATV didn’t have enough momentum to make it up the hill. It was a scary moment of trying to regain control. But in between the rugged sections, I got to enjoy the open fields of pineapples and breadfruit trees, plus views of the volcanic ridges.

​We made a few stops to enjoy the scenery, including a return to the Belvedere Lookout. However, the most memorable stop was to see the blue-eyed eels. These enormous eels were able to swim upstream through shallow water, towards the feeding area where guides offered a snack. A significant portion of the eels’ backs were exposed, making quite a splash as they slithered against the current. I was invited to feel one – it was incredibly soft and incredibly slick. What marvelous creatures.

​​My brother kindly offered to let me ride as a passenger, so I could fully enjoy the last leg of the journey. At the end, we stopped at local store for a jam tasting and blended juice drinks. Overall, I'm glad I tried ATV-ing, but it didn't strike me as the safest sport. I'm content to get my adrenaline elsewhere.

We had a short lunch break between tours. I joined a group going to Snack Mahana, a local restaurant by the beach. Their generous portion of tuna sashimi was fresh and tasty.

​The afternoon tour was a boating and snorkeling expedition. We tried on masks and fins at the Activities Center, and then were off. The boat started by taking us from Opunohu Bay to Cook’s Bay, passing by a mysterious luxury yacht with a helicopter and the Hilton with the overwater bungalows. We spotted a pod of dolphins, unusual for the afternoon (they are more active in the morning). From this lagoon perspective, we could even see our villas on the hillside.

​The first snorkeling stop was a perfect warm-up. The lagoon was protected and shallow, so we could stand on the field of coral debris while we adjusted our gear. Moving as a group, we followed the guide into the reef. Along the way, the guide swam down to the bottom and found a few show-and-tell items, like an enormous pineapple sea cucumber with big gummy spikes. In some places it was deep, and I practiced diving down without the snorkel to get closer to the fish. In other places it was shallow, requiring extreme care not to accidentally kick the coral. Back in the boat, we hydrated with juice, and in some cases, with alcoholic Tahiti drink.

​The second snorkeling stop came with a catch – we would not be swimming, but instead riding along with a strong current. We had to jump in at the same time to avoid getting separated. Looking down 20 or 30 feet to the bottom, we could appreciate how fast the current was moving us. It was like being immersed in an ocean freeway. Towards the end, we spotted a group of well-camouflaged turtles hanging out on the floor, including one that surfaced for air.

​We eventually were carried into the shallows where the boat was waiting for us. Moments before arriving, I was looking towards the beach when several black-tipped reef sharks went zooming by, just feet away. While the black-tipped sharks don’t bother humans, I still wasn’t expecting to see one in such shallow water. It was practically at eye level. I marveled at these sleek and efficient swimmers, perfectly optimized for the ocean over millennia (their ancestors are older than dinosaurs!)

​Sharks weren’t the only cartilaginous fish in the lagoon. A dozen stingrays were also waiting by the boat! The stingrays were large, round, and not afraid of people. They brushed their wings against us as they swam past. We were a bit nervous as they were “armed” with stingers, and we didn’t know their intentions. But it turns out they were accustomed to humans, as the guides were giving them food. The rays would even turn themselves vertically and poke their mouths above the surface, surrounding the guides with flapping and splashing wings. It was a delightful and totally unexpected sight. We all had the chance for plenty of ray petting (and hugs) as there were so many around us. We later learned the term for a group of stingrays is a “fever” – and this was most definitely a fever of rays! I’m already a big fan of rays, and it was the kind of memorable encounter that won over the rest of the group too.

​It was our last night in the villas, and we went for a group dinner at the Holy Steak House at the bottom of the hill. The table was livened up with pina coladas and frozen daiquiris. After so much seafood the past few days, many of us were craving hamburgers, but the restaurant didn’t have enough for everyone. Only on a remote island would a steakhouse run out of burgers. The chocolate dessert was delectable.

The next morning was logistically a bit tricky. We ended up moving our jetski tour earlier in the day, so we could return to the villas for checkout and for one group to catch a taxi (the small rental cars didn’t have enough space for everyone plus luggage). There was a little scrambling but it all worked out.
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It was my first time operating a jetski, and I was wary after the ATV experience. As it turned out, having the accelerator on the handlebar wasn’t an issue because the steering the jetski required less torque, and there was no bump steer from the ocean. Still, there was a learning curve. Going at slow speeds in the harbor, it felt like the jetski was fishtailing, but this impression faded at higher speeds. Leaving the harbor, the wakes and waves caused the jetski to pitch side to side, which was a little discombobulating. The guide’s suggestion was to go faster, but I found the jetski stability was most improved by steering in a gentle S-pattern. I think having the handlebars straight allowed for passive steering from the ocean. The gentle turning seemed to get rid of the slop.

​Cruising across the protected lagoon was spectacular. The shadows of the coral were visible through the blue water. It felt like gliding over a highway of glass. The greenery of the mainland and the occasional motu (small island) added to the atmosphere, and a pod of dolphins made an appearance. I was much more comfortable on the jetski than the ATV, and made it up to the max speed of around 60 km/h. There were some moments of bumpiness, but it only added to the adrenaline rush.

We made a snorkeling stop, dismounting from the jetskis and exploring a small reef. The guides offered us scraps of food so we could feed the fish ourselves, and I gave it a go. I loved being surrounded by the colorful schools and seeing them at eye level. Most fish were content to chase the scraps I let loose with my right hand, but a few smart fish went straight for the stash in my left hand. This was one of the few snorkeling trips where I had left my GoPro behind (I wasn’t sure it would stay onboard the jetski) and it was refreshing to simply be in the moment. However, I had to release the food early because a large stingray was approaching, and the guide didn’t want us feeding the rays. While rays may not be the most emotive animals in the world, I swear that ray looked disappointed.

We hopped back on the jetskis, the stingrays circling below to bid us farewell. The fast ride into the harbor included a few sharp turns: one last burst of excitement before returning to land.
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While the ATV learning curve was too steep to be comfortable, I would gladly hop on a jetski again. Moorea’s protected lagoon was the perfect place to try it out. Of course, the amazing stingrays and sharks were also a big highlight. To end this post, here’s a video highlight reel with some of these memorable vehicles, places, and animals.